Our Montana summer has been amazing, and this is my final post about our experiences there. Altogether, our month and a half in the state warranted five blog posts, each highlighting a different experience and area of the state.
In case you missed them:
- Visiting The Last Best Place Does Not Disappoint
- When History Comes To Life, So Does The Painful Truth Of Our Nation’s Past
- Montana – The SECOND Best Of The Last Best Place
- Montana – The BEST Of The Last Best Place
This final post is all the touristy stuff we did with our loved ones that were visiting. It was some of the best fun of our summer.
THIS is Montana – Not A Tourist Trap, But Rather A Great Destination!
Andy and I looked forward to this leg of our trip because this is when we got to share this amazing state with loved ones! We were thrilled to find out that our friend, Steve, was going to visit us in Montana! Right as his visit had to end, we then welcomed Christy and Chris, our daughter and future son-in-law (it is so cool that we can say that now! Go read my last post if you want to read those details!). THIS was going to be quite the summer!!!
Steve flew in from South Carolina and caught up with us in Anaconda, MT at Fairmont RV Park. (Side note: We don’t recommend you stay at this campground, because the owners are miserable and mean, but not to worry, the facility was decent and the views pretty. We made do without a picnic table or firepit).
One of the first orders of business upon Steve’s arrival was the need to share the secret news of the upcoming engagement with Steve. Steve is the consummate planner, so we knew that he could be helpful in scouring Glacier National Park for some great options. But first, some fun with our friend!
We went into Butte a couple of times. Our first stop was at the Granite Mountain Speculator Mine Disaster Memorial. This is where we learned about hard rock mining. We have seen signs of mining all summer, throughout Colorado and all the way north through Montana. Most notably, we have been lulled to sleep by the sound of trains and train whistles at nearly EVERY campground ALL SUMMER (I think there was ONE campground not near a train track, but I honestly cannot recall which one it might have been). We have seen signs of mining wherever we went and learned of how mining has played a role in the history of the west.
In Butte, the 1917 disaster was difficult but important to learn about. An accidental fire in the mine led to the death of 166 miners on that fateful day, and more than a century later, we had the privilege and honor to visit the site and wrap up our hearts in the beautiful memorial. It was well done and educational at the same time. If you ever find yourself in Butte, this should be your first stop.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
Our next stop was equally telling and informative – the Berkley Pit. It is a place where we learned of the tremendous and tragic environmental impact hard rock mining has on our planet. While beautiful in a unique way, this once massive copper mining area is now a giant pit that has filled with a very caustic and dangerous mine runoff. It was amazing to see how something so dangerous can also be so pretty at the same time.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
A gentleman that used to live in the area and had returned for a visit was at the site when we were there. He was a great help at explaining the history and tragedy of the place. This mining stop is worthwhile (and with a very small admission cost) even if you don’t think mining is of any interest to you.
The third and final touristy stop for us was also related to mining. We spent a few hours at the World Museum of Mining. It was an entire historic mining town recreated on the site of the former Orphan Girl Mine, which operated from 1875 to the 1950s and produced silver, lead and zinc. Historic buildings were relocated from other areas and moved here to create a realistic little mining town and an immersive education into hard rock mining. Most of the museum was established in the 1970s and is a little worn looking, but it felt as if that only added to the hardworking feel that must have been in place back when the original mining town popped up around the Orphan Girl mine. It was an easy self-guided look into the industry, but guided tours of the mine itself were also available.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
While in the area, we did manage to eat a decent meal in town and we made a quick stop at The Historic Clark Chateau Museum and Gallery, a historic home that is now open for self-guided tours (you may also like the Copper King Mansion, but we were unable to tour the site due to limited tour times). We also enjoyed a stroll down the street just to take in the beauty of some of the old homes in the area. If you are a fan of old architecture, this is a nice home, but none that we saw came close to the MUST SEE old home we wrote about previously in Sheridan, Wyoming – Why, Oh Wyoming – Casper And Sheridan We May Be Back.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
The unexpected fun of the week was a road trip to “The Yellowstone”! Yes, you read that right! Steve casually mentioned that we were within striking distance of the well known fictional “Dutton Ranch”, so it was time for a drive! We headed out through some amazing scenery on a road that was higher, and narrower and prettier than we had imagined it would be. Included was a photo shoot with our first ram sighting! What a treat!
Then it was on to lunch for what the guys agreed was the BEST. BURGERS. EVER. at Bitter Root Brewery and Restaurant. That is certainly saying something! Lunch was really amazing for me as well (Gyro), and of course we had to try a couple of the locally brewed beers.
Our next drive that day was to TV-land for a roadside peek at the fictional Dutton Ranch, but what is actually named the Chief Joseph Ranch, in Darby, Montana. The photos show the extent of the visit (you cannot go on the property unless you are a guest in one of their rental cabins), but since that time, Andy and I have been re-watching and devouring all three seasons of the show in anticipation of the November debut of season four on Paramount!
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
As we wrapped up our visit with Steve, we headed over to our next and perhaps most anticipated destination so far….Glacier National Park. It was here that the guys got serious about honing in on the PERFECT proposal location for Chris and Christy!
The West Glacier RV Park is among my most favorite campgrounds all summer for a couple of important reasons: 1. We were surrounded by mountains and a big sky that gave the state its “Big Sky” nickname, and 2. We were only a couple of minutes from the park entrance. We could not have asked for prettier views from our front door, brighter stars at night, or a campsite any closer to Glacier Park!
We immediately ventured into GNP for an evening spectacular, discovering the gorgeous Lake McDonald and McDonald Lodge, which would be the centerpiece of some future fun during our stay. We stopped along some roadside pullouts on the lower end of the Going To The Sun Road, and we looked all around for proposal opportunities. Andrew had his eyes set on a hike to Avalanche Lake by way of the Trail of the Cedars and Steve set up mental photo-taking opportunities at the Sacred Dancing Cascades, which would also make for a most perfect scene for a proposal. As darkness fell, we planned for a big day when Chris and Christy arrived, because we had only that one day to fully scope out the perfect location (and still help Chris keep it all a secret!).
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
Glacier International Airport is only a 30 minute drive from the park, in nearby Kalispell and it is quaint and adorable. We picked up our 2nd and 3rd guests, Christy and Chris, and headed over for a bite to eat, spontaneously selecting the Waters Edge Winery and Bistro, based on Google reviews and their menu of small plates, tapas and wine! Three of us enjoyed wine flights, and we all enjoyed the food we selected. The mid-afternoon time of day gave us the entire place to ourselves, and we laughed and smiled and enjoyed the joy and excitement that travel has on the soul.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
Once the kids settled in at the campground, we all agreed that in order to maximize our short time together, a drive into GNP was in order for the evening (this national park currently has ticketed entry, and without a ticket that day, we could only enter after 5 pm). Because we had Steve’s rental vehicle, we made the venture all the way up the Going To The Sun Road (our truck is not permitted to go this far due to its size) to Logan’s Pass along the Continental Divide where we saw more rams, and down the other side, out of the park and all the way back around, late at night to our campsite, sleepy but satisfied with our day. It was a beautiful evening drive on what many describe as the most beautiful road in the world. What a way to end our visit with Steve! He made his way back to South Carolina, and we look forward to our next visit with him and his family – currently scheduled for Thanksgiving in Myrtle Beach!
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
The next day was all about romance and engagements rather than being tourists, and if you haven’t already done so, check out my post about how love took root in Glacier National Park for my step-daughter and her now-fiance’!
Now that the pressure was off all of us from the engagement, we did our best to relax and prepare for an evening boat ride on Lake McDonald. Arriving a little early, we first peeked inside the historic and beautiful McDonald Lodge. Built in 1913, and constructed of massive trees that were surely harvested from the area, the decor and structure of this lodge is quite impressive. The area also includes cabins nearby, but the gem is the lodge with 82 rooms and a restaurant (closed due to Covid). Because access in the park was much more limited at the beginning of the century, the beauty of the lodge faces the lake, because most guests arrived by boat in those early years. But the entire property is still gorgeous, with overflowing window boxes and hanging baskets of flowers.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
We explored the lakeshore, shopped in the little gift shop, ordered some drinks at the take-out window, then boarded the historic vessel DeSmet, built in 1930. We settled into some open air seats at the rear of the boat and relaxed as the sun began to set. We learned about the stories that this largest lake in Glacier National Park has to tell and also enjoyed chatting with a family of newly FT RVers having an adventure in the park. It was the perfect way to relax in the moment, and savor the special days the four of us had together.
Not to sit on our laurels, our next adventure began in the morning with a red bus tour to the Going To The Sun Road! Our tour guide was phenomenal, with much knowledge of history and geology in the area. Our bus was one of 33 in the fleet, and is considered the oldest touring fleet of vehicles in the world! We had no idea the buses were old, much less historic and beautifully restored and upgraded over the years – they were exquisite. The Going To The Sun road was just as amazing this time during the middle of the day as it had been a couple days earlier in the evening, but this time there was the added benefit of a guide that could answer all of our questions as well. Our journey took a number of scenic stops along the way and ended at Logan’s Pass before turning around to see all the new views coming back down into the park again. Any worries I had about “seeing the road twice” were quickly resolved.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
One of the coolest places we saw while in the area was not even in Glacier National Park at all! For many months, Andy had been reading online about the famous and very popular huckleberry bear claw pastries that visitors drive hours to get in Polebridge, Montana. Named so because of the bridge made of poles that used to be in the area, Polebridge features a mercantile, a saloon, cabins for rent and a LOT of wide open space. It is 27 miles from West Glacier, on a largely dirt road and miles of mother nature’s best work only 17 miles from the Canadian border.
Chris, Christy, Andrew and I took the drive to Polebridge with only an expectation of bear claw pastries, and we ended up in a mecca of quirky, historic, and quite a busy shopping, eating, drinking and hiking destination! It was incredible, and beautiful and a warm, sunny day. We bought lunch at the Sasquatch Grill food truck that boasted poutine (a Canadian dish of gravy fries with cheese curds) alongside delicious curry spiced rice bowls that harkened from an entirely different palette and part of the world.
The Mercantile next door has been serving area residents and tourists alike for more than 100 years and sells much more than pastries. The store was bustling and products ranged from cold beverages and baked goods, to clothing, postcards and camping supplies.
For much of the summer, Andrew had also been following news reports of a wildfire that was getting close to Polebridge and our visit there was put at risk. Thankfully for all, the fire was eventually contained and did no harm in Polebridge. There was, however, a walking trail called the Transboundary Flathead River Interpretive Trail next to the property that meandered out into an area that had suffered wildfire damage years earlier. We have been seeing the damage caused by wildfires all throughout our western travels this summer, but to walk among the damaged land and see it coming back to life was interesting.
Polebridge identifies itself as a place “where the west is still wild” and we now understand. The businesses will close down in October and won’t begin opening again until April with snow still on the distant mountains, wildlife coming back to life and Montanoans ready to enjoy yet another brief summer in Polebridge.
Note: For photo slideshow mobile viewing, swipe right; for tablet or desktop viewing, click on arrows
These days in and around Glacier National Park wound up as the grand finale of our summer tour of the west. It has been among some of the most incredible and special moments of our lives and the states of Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana are now solidly some of our favorites! Shortly after our stay in this northwest corner of the state, we began our trip back east to take care of medical appointments, visits with our mothers and children and a bit of a more “regular life” for a while. We leave reluctantly, but immensely grateful. We have been blessed with safe travels and incredible experiences and will now be able to spend some time with our loved ones back east that we miss very much.
If there are any suggestions we would give others that often tell us that they wish they could do what we are doing or declare how lucky we are, it would be this – expect the same for your life. There are many adventures out there for all of us, in all places and at all price points. Plan well to find out what your adventure might look like. Become debt-free to make it possible. Use the many changes in our world to find employment that will support your dreams. Stick to a budget and save. Start small, but start now, because you never know what time, travels and tribulations lie ahead for you.
Safe travels and enjoy your journey!
“Everything is so big—the sky, the mountains, the wind-swept flatlands—it sinks into you, it shapes your body and your dreams.”
Christopher Paolini
“Of all the memorable views, the best have been framed by Montana windows.”
William Hjortsberg
“I’m in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection. But with Montana, it is love. And it’s difficult to analyze love when you’re in it.”
John Steinbeck
“It seems to me Montana is a great splash of grandeur. The scale is huge but not overpowering. The land is rich with grass and color, and the mountains are the kind I would create if mountains were ever put on my agenda.”
John Steinbeck
“My favorite state has not yet been invented. It will be called Montana, and it will be perfect.”
Abraham Lincoln
