bison – The view from the edge of our empty nest.

Cheyenne, Wyoming – Where We Found Truth More Than Grey

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.”

~ Anita Desai

Initially, it felt like Wyoming might be a let down. If Colorado is so well regarded as a popular and preferential destination for incoming residents and visitors alike, perhaps spending 15 days in neighboring Wyoming would disappoint. After all, we just finished a wonderful 28 day stay in Colorado. The cities in Wyoming are smaller and sleepier. The population is fewer and overall much more rural. The reputation for tourism is not bad certainly, but it has some steep competition with so many amazing surrounding western US states!

The Wyoming leg of our summer travels will span from July 6 – 21, 2021 and we will stay in three separate locations and campgrounds, primarily because we were unable to find campgrounds with space for much longer than four to six nights at a time (the lesson in this is, during post-pandemic times, know that there are a LOT more folks getting away from it all through camping, so reservations must be made WAY in advance!).

Stop #1 was Cheyenne, WY. As it turned out, this was the perfect balance of our time, with six days to explore and relax in the area. As we approached the state of Wyoming, it quickly became apparent that this southeastern region of the state was much different than the perhaps the more glamorous state of Colorado we had just left. The views were still beautiful, but in a different way. From the highway at least, you no longer noticed grand ranches and towns that were economic hubs. Instead it was more flat, more brown, and simpler in its beauty.

Our first impression upon arrival at our campground was that this area of Wyoming seems to be less of a destination and more a “stop along the way”. The campground was at 100% occupancy every night of our stay, but completely cleared out each morning except for perhaps a half dozen other campers, as travelers quickly moved on to wherever was their ultimate destination. What a shame. We were fortunate to be among the few campers that were going to spend a little time discovering Cheyenne.

We had a great visit to the area, but it was indeed a very different place than that which we had just left. My favorite day in Cheyenne was our last – and it was for simple, unexpected reasons. But before I share the best, let me share the rest…

Cheyenne is a city that was smaller and sleepier than I had imagined the largest city in the state would be. It is the capital as well, and steeped in history. There are only about 60,000 people there, it has a rough and tumble history, and lenient alcohol laws that permit open containers on the streets. So it was not surprising to see distilleries, breweries, outdoor concerts, a variety of western-themed museums and a historic shopping area that would entertain, educate and enlighten us for the next six days.

The bridge over the Union Pacific train tracks as we enter downtown Cheyenne, WY

I found the website cheyenne.org and several free and for-a-fee coupon download opportunities. We began with a trolly tour of the downtown and quickly became acclimated to the simple layout of the area. In the midst of a mini heat wave, the air-conditioning on board the trolley was less than efficient, but the admission was included with our $20 per person Legendary Pass which included admission to seven area attractions. We also were able to visit the Cheyenne Depot Museum, the Nelson Museum of the West, and the Terry Bison Ranch (a discounted admission) with the same pass. All were worthwhile, but in keeping with the Cheyenne theme, were also quaint and simple while remaining chock full of interest and history.

Another download from the Cheyenne Visitor’s Guide website (Daddy of the Malt) gave us BOGO discounts at any of a half dozen “thirst parlors” in town – we found our way to Accomplice Beer Company, set in the historic Cheyenne Depot. The (train) Depot is, of course, right alongside the many rows of still very active train tracks that in the 1860s, caused a quickly burgeoning city as new Americans arrived in what had previously been vast Native American and bison lands.

Accomplice Beer Company inside the Depot

We ate our first authentic and tasty Chicken Fried Steak at the Albany Restaurant, in the heart of downtown. You could see the history in the building facades wherever we walked, and in the photographs lining the walls inside the restaurant. Without a fancy interior, but with a really bustling local crowd on a weeknight, you get the sense that most of the streets and stores and restaurants roll up their sidewalks and close their doors at night as the breweries, distilleries and various beverage parlors welcome the crowds later at night.

Along the way, we caught a little bit of the daily gunslinger show and we shopped for gifts, snacks and western wear downtown. But one of our best discoveries was what has to be among the best restaurants in all of Cheyenne. Nothing fancy, as seems to be the feel of all of the Cheyenne restaurants we visited, the varied and unique menu is what caught our eyes. EpicEGG is a breakfast and brunch stop, open only until 2:00 pm each day. We loved the look of so many items on the menu that we went two days in a row….and took a take-out order home as well! Our favorites? Go Green Bene (a meatless twist on Eggs Benedict) and Epic Bene (a meatier twist on the classic). I also enjoyed my first ever Chicken Fried Chicken and Waffle, served with warm maple syrup and Andy enjoyed a meaty, cheesy, eggy, skillet dish that was also delicious. We took home some Sausage Gravy and Biscuit and from their lunch fare, a Reuben Sandwich. We were left wanting more, with our eyes caught on breakfast items with a Mexican flare, stuffed French toast and Pineapple Upside Down Cake Pancakes! Each savory menu item featured a different type of bread, including ciabatta, biscuit, English muffin, croissant, or quinoa cakes! Then, of course is the no-judgment-zone day drinking menu, including a dozen varieties of Mimosa, several Bloody Mary features and a few other unique cocktails that made this restaurant a fun midday stop on the tourist trail!

All of this fun brings us back to our best day in Cheyenne – our last day.

We awoke on a beautiful Sunday, with temperatures expected to be mercifully average – in the mid-to-high 80s, with the usual dry atmosphere to which our skin and eyes were finally adjusting after months of low humidity. There was no rain in the forecast, and the breeze, seemingly always present in Wyoming, made this day relaxed and comfortable, as we made our way to a local church.

Andy wore his newly acquired western boots and hat (yep, we are THOSE tourists, lol), and I wore my new Chaco sandals, all part of some of the fun shopping we enjoyed in Cheyenne. We were both dressed casually, something that was perfectly acceptable and noted on the Cheyenne Hills Church website (and a big perk as FT RVers with a small RV-sized wardrobe). I selected this church because it was the closest to our campground and because it seemed much different than any churches we had attended previously, but what we received was more meaningful.

Dressing the part in the wild west…as we head off to church on a beautiful Sunday morning

The experience was moving for us. Their use of technology to meet their mission was impressive. Their facilities were beautiful and amazing. The music was inspiring. The service had high production value. But the 21 year old speaker that day, aptly named Cole Church, was the icing on the cake that was our visit to Cheyenne!

The lobby looked like a nice Starbucks for social gatherings, and the seating inside the church was like a crisply decorated, high tech theatre.

You can see and hear the entire service at this link, selecting the sermon entitled The Scoffers, recorded on 7/11/21. The musical preludes and rest of the service are all worthwhile, but if you wish to get right to the message we heard, go to 36:45. As is often the case, you get what you need. We were reminded, through a sermon that was timely for us, that “God is real…God is in control…God is patient. The TRUTH is still real in a world of grey”. 1:07:29 is the closing prayer that moves into a beautiful cover song (The Comment Section, Sidewalk Prophets) as well. Give it a listen and bring a little bit of beautiful Cheyenne into your world.

We visited Cheyenne Hills church during their Strengthen and Engage series – it hit the mark with us.

Do not get the wrong impression. It is not to say that Cheyenne was so ho-hum that a church service was the highlight of my stay, but rather, that this church visit was so wonderful, it became the culminating event in a really great visit to Cheyenne, Wyoming! The church’s tagline is “Across The Street; Around The World” and this is a perfect representation of them and their mission – as well as something that truly speaks to us as a couple seeking a new church at each stop along the way in our travels.

As we held hands and left Cheyenne Hills Church (headed over to epicEgg for our second visit), I couldn’t help but imagine that one day, we will settle our roots once again, end our nomadic RVing ways, and find a worship home that stirs inspiration, love and peace into our life like this visit to Cheyenne Hills gifted us on this Sunday.

Thanks Cheyenne Hills Church and Cheyenne, Wyoming. We aren’t exactly across the street, and we aren’t so far as to be around the world either. But don’t be surprised if we check in online occasionally to enjoy your church, wherever our nomadic life takes us!

Stop #2 – Casper, Wyoming!

“Veni Vidi Amavi” (We came, We saw, We loved.)

~ Roman Proverb

A stone inlay map of the Utah Territory in the floor of the Depot

Some Of The Best Experiences In Life Happen When You Just “Go With The Flow”.

John 7:38 ESV “Whoever believes in me, as the Scripture has said, ‘Out of his heart will flow rivers of living water.”

The Schmidt Party of Nine – L to R – Jonathan, Ellie, Sarah, Andrew, Tina, Abby, Patrick, Christy and Ben

Several months ago as we were planning our visit to some of the western states in our RV, my husband, Andrew, talked about a couple of bucket list items of his brother’s that were in the area where we would be traveling. Included on Patrick’s list was seeing Brit Floyd (a Pink Floyd cover band) in concert at Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre in Colorado. He also wanted to attempt to climb Grays Peak, the “easiest” of the state’s “14-ers” (fourteen-ers), which is any mountain at least 14,000 feet tall.

We checked out the event schedule at Red Rocks. Lo and behold, Patrick’s bucket list band was playing this summer! Seeing it as a great opportunity to visit with his brother, Andrew asked Patrick, “Are you in”? The beginning of an unexpected lifetime adventure was suddenly evolving and we didn’t even realize it.

Patrick and his family bought concert tickets and airline tickets. We bought concert tickets and booked a campground nearby. Andrew’s three children heard about what we were doing for that leg of the trip and decided to come along as well. More plane tickets, more concert tickets!

Bucket List – A panoramic view of Red Rocks Ampitheatre, Morrison, Colorado

The phrase “going with the flow”, infers change and flexibility. Of the “Schmidt Party of Nine”, none of us except Patrick had ever seen or knew much of anything about Red Rocks or Grays Peak, but for some reason, we were all excited and ALL IN! As trip planning proceeded, we devoured videos of climbers and concert-goers. We became very excited and immediately realized that we might also be a bit unprepared! We purchased bear spray, trekking poles and began shopping for very outdoorsy backpacks that were capable of holding hydration packs. We crafted emails to the kids, helping to prepare them for what was ahead for us. We heard more and more information from Patrick and learned about things we might encounter such as altitude sickness and the legalities of marijuana. We ventured further into our excitement and completely became fans of Patrick’s bucket list items!

As our post-Covid world began to open, we were disappointed to discover that the concert date was postponed (the band was likely moving on to a larger venue for our June visit) and in that instant, Brit Floyd at Red Rocks was yanked out of reach for us. The great part about this bad news? Everyone still wanted to make the trip to Colorado! We pivoted and decided that we should still go to Red Rocks, as our research and Patrick had by now told us all that the fabulous venue had to offer – museum, a hall of fame, miles of trails, yoga, movies and more.

So this week, the idea sparked by Patrick came to be. The spark that was further fanned by his generous sharing of information and enthusiasm absolutely CHANGED THE LIVES of all nine of us, aged 19 to 54. We saw and experienced beauty and inspiration like we have never before seen and felt.

This experience of a lifetime began with Patrick’s enthusiasm for two very specific goals.

It is safe to say that we are all so grateful that we decided to go with the flow and jump on the new experiences that Patrick wanted to experience. His goals became our shared goals.

At Red Rocks Amphitheatre and Park, we hiked a challenging 1.5 mile trail that helped reality set in for what we were to experience the following day on Grays Peak. The beauty was overwhelming. The merging of natural rock formations with man-made architecture was incredible. The altitude affected our breathing. Our muscles burned in the hot Colorado sun even at only 6,500 feet. We felt first-hand how conscious hydration and calorie replacement is a real thing. We toured the museum and music hall of fame, bought souvenirs in the gift shop and every one of us vowed that we would return some day to see a concert here (and Patrick ended up seeing the replacement band at the venue the next night).

We went to bed early that night, each of us feeling some anxiety for the mountain ahead of us. We awoke at 1 am to make the drive to meet Patrick and his family at the base of the mountain parking area at 4 am. The stars shone like never before. We all could feel the nerves in our guts and the chill of the suddenly 40 degree mountain air.

4:04 am, June 11, 2021 – before dawn, adrenaline pumping in the cold air and darkness. feeling underprepared but thrilled.

As the sun was just starting to rise, we hiked the bridge over the river of melting snow and began our ascent, ready or not. The trip to the top of Grays Peak is 4.5 miles and is one of the most popular mountain hikes in the state. The youngest in our group quickly were able to pull out ahead of us, not affected as much by the thin air and having the advantage of less weight and more fitness in their bodies.

Arms outstretched, Abby strikes a pose that many of us struck over two days – an attempt to show appreciation for the overwhelming vastness of beauty we were encountering as the sun rose.

At times I had to stop and catch my breath every 10 steps. This first third of our ascent was the most difficult for me, and I grew angry at how difficult it was (I had lost 15 pounds in anticipation of the hike, but grumbled at myself for having not lost 30!). “What on earth had Patrick gotten us into!?” I thought to myself. This was where the battle was mental as much as physical.

We slowly stepped toward the approaching sunshine, step-by-painful-step.

Mercifully, after about a mile or so into the hike, as we entered the valley between two mountains, the ascent became more gradual and the views more glorious than could even be imagined. My lungs began to acclimate to the lack of oxygen and as I watched the time and distance progress on my Fitbit, I could sense my progress and my attitude improving.

Our group of nine began thinning out, and Patrick, Sarah, Andrew and I gave the kids their desired “go-ahead” to move on at their own pace and said a silent prayer that they would make good choices in what truly could be a dangerous place. After that point, we didn’t see Patrick and his wife Sarah again, who had settled into a location slightly behind us as they adjusted to perhaps more-than-expected altitude nausea and unbeknownst to us at the time, a catastrophic boot failure that forced their return to our vehicles.

Go ahead – go as far as you can go! We will do the same.

At some point, Christy, Andrew’s oldest, had decided to reverse direction and left the “youngsters” and turned back to the “old folks”, worried both about her next steps on the snow-covered and increasingly difficult trail they had encountered, and about her parents lagging behind. As we met each other, she was both surprised and pleased to see us, not really believing that we were still attempting the difficult climb. Renewed in spirit, she joined Andrew and me for the rest of our hike, and passed that spot that had caused her initial retreat, conquering fears and growing in personal strength at the same time.

Cell service had long ago disappeared before we even reached the parking lot, but as we entered the second mile of our ascent, we rose above the tree line and suddenly our phones could “see” the cell towers and began to allow all the texts and pent up phone data to come through. We received a text from one of the kids – “If you can see this – we are almost to the top!”. We were inspired to do our best and push our personal limits.

Another hour or so into our uphill battle, we saw the approaching image of Ben and Abby, Andrew’s middle and youngest children, returning down the mountain and amazed to see us. We discovered that they had not quite made it to the top. Their obstacle was a ledge of ice in what was becoming increasingly high winds that began just as the most challenging mountainside switchback section of the trail began. They made an attempt and decided that safety would be their choice this time. Patrick and Sarah’s children, Jonathan and continued on, eventually becoming the only two of our group that would complete the full ascent.

Abby and Ben returning toward us – excited about their accomplishments.

Seemingly in disbelief when they see Andrew, Christy and me – still making our ascent.

Andrew and I (along with Ben) eventually arrived at the same location where Ben and Abby had decided to turn around an hour earlier. We took our first sit-down rest of the day and watched as other hikers slowly moved across the narrow trail of ice, now melting into a sometimes more treacherous slushy snow. Grown adults, some trying to hug the wall of snow above them or crouch low to the ground to avoid slipping into the long slope below them slowly and methodically crept across the part of the path we could see before the first switchback.

The photos don’t effectively show the challenge these hikers had traversing the beginning of the switchbacks.

The slope, the ice, the snow, the loose rocks – the factors that helped us make a decision as to when our ascent was completed for the day.

We seriously contemplated whether or not we might make an attempt, but witnessed (and photographed) too much struggle with more prepared, fit and younger hikers than us. It was ultimately a very satisfying and easy decision. The mountain had not actually defeated our aging bodies. Our fear had not won out over our desire to make it to the summit. We simply decided that this was how far we should go today. We had achieved something far beyond what we had expected and were proud of all of us.

Andrew attempted a phone call to our nephew, Jonathan who we expected might be at the top by now and the call went through! He and his sister had made it to the top, all 14,278 feet, representing a victory that our entire group felt and shared with them. Jonathan is an experienced and savvy outdoorsman, and he volunteered that this trek was “hardcore” for him. At one point, he even helped in the rescue of a man that was stuck on the mountainside.

We were thrilled for Jonathan and Ellie and even more satisfied that we had made the right decision to turn back down the mountain. At this point, three miles and 11,111 steps in, perhaps at about 13,000 feet, we realized that our adventure on this mountain was only half over.

With the decision made to start our decent, we were able to savor the journey that much more. Ben was often able to “get ahead” of us, and then take a seat for a while to enjoy the views of this peaceful place until we caught up with him.

As the adrenaline finally began to ease, our muscles began to ache. The use of our muscles changed as well, and the need for agility on a downward hike became mission critical. The sun was now shining on our hard working bodies and we continued to shed our layers. We stopped more frequently to simply stand and savor the views. The three of us, Ben, Andrew and I, caught up with others – first Christy and then Abby, and not a mile from the end of our day, even Jonathan and Elie caught up with us and passed us, no doubt happy to return to their mom and dad to tell them of their incredible feat.

All smiles as we savor our accomplishment – and only halfway through our day’s adventure!

Our group once again growing, we carefully made our way back down the mountain.

Exactly 7 ½ hours from the beginning of our adventure, all nine of us were finally all together again, with smiles and cheers and hugs all around. It was just after noon. We had crammed quite a bit of adventure into our morning. Along the way, we touched lives with some amazing people. Two young boys, perhaps 8 and 10, with their dad, passed us on the way up and on the way down the mountain. Several hikers with large backpacks that included skis and poles passed us, then skied down from the summit, and when the snow ended, hiked the rest of the way, passing us once again. Young adults in the best shape of their lives zipped past us, wished us “Good Morning” and gave us words of encouragement. Dogs of all varieties were living a great dog’s life and looking incredibly happy, one even carrying his own backpack, no doubt filled with his food and water. We were even passed along our descent by an ultra-marathoner and his dog that were literally running down the mountain.

There is nothing like a little mountain hike to reconnect with siblings.

Through all of it, we learned that hikers are an incredibly supportive and positive group. They taught us that the victory isn’t necessarily at the top of the mountain, but in your own personal challenges and hard work, and your arrival at that place where you can say to yourself “I am so blessed to be able to do this and so proud of what I achieved today,” THAT is when you celebrate great victories.

We made it – no injuries – and only tears of happiness.

To say the photos don’t do the views justice would be a gross understatement. These are views that will make you cry (some of us did). These are places that if you stand quietly, you can hear God speak to you, simply because you are that much closer to heaven. These are experiences of places and people and animals and plants that will inspire you and become a part of your soul – changing your DNA while fully absorbing the experience.

Thanks so much Patrick, from all of us. I aim to go with the flow more often because I have been reminded that joining an adventure with others that I never even knew I wanted can bring inspiration, achievement and love of life into my world better than anything already on my bucket list.

Isaiah 40:3-4
A voice of one calling: “In the wilderness prepare the way for the Lord;
make straight in the desert a highway for our God. Every valley shall be raised up,
every mountain and hill made low; the rough ground shall become level, the rugged
places a plain.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Bonus photos: We explored Morrison, Colorado in the afternoon of our visit to Red Rocks, where Schmidt Party of Nine enjoyed a meal together. It is also at a nearby wings shop where Christy and Ben tried “Rocky Mountain Oysters”, a unique “delicacy” of bull testicles. An acquired taste, for sure.

Boulder Beer Shake (chocolately), in Morrison, Colorado

A last minute addition to Ben and Christy’s bucket lists – check and check!

More Bonus Photos: Straight from the Denver airport, we wasted no time discovering Colorado, with a stop at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge, where we spotted, Mule Deer, White Tail Deer, Prarie Dogs, Bison and one VERY large rabbit!