Montana – The Second Best Of “The Last Best Place”!

To say that Montana never ceases to amaze us would be an understatement.  So don’t be disappointed by the title of this post (you will understand later why the best is still ahead!). As we continued with part two of our three segment tour of the Treasure State, we set up camp at a quiet little campground in Island Park, Idaho called RedRock RV Park (which is really close to Montana).  We knew this might be a great stay for us when the road took us on a five mile gravel drive past dozens of dispersed campsites, into free range grazing land and around the massive and beautiful Henry Lake.  As we approached the campground, the sign said it all – “Shhh, it’s quiet around here”.

See the dots? Swipe right (mobile) or click the right arrow to scroll through the photo gallery.

The campground is adjacent to public land on the back side of the property as well, so our “back yard” for two weeks was filled with wide open spaces, acres of open space for Calvin to enjoy being off lease, hundreds of friendly grazing cows and a smattering of boondocking RVs across the distant panorama.  This was our perfect jumping off point and only a 25 minute drive to the west entrance of Yellowstone National Park (which is actually in Montana AND Wyoming).

The magic, as it were, began the next morning when we ventured in the direction of the national park.  The campground employees had told us to take our time on the little gravel road out to the highway, as it wasn’t too uncommon to see wildlife.  Sure enough, as we neared the end of the drive, out popped four giant male moose, with full racks of antlers covered in velvet.  They grazed along the side of the road and allowed us ample time to take photos and video.  They jumped the four foot barbed wire fence with ease, casually crossed the road in front of us, posing for more photos along the way.  Once on the other side, they continued their breakfast of tree leaves before wandering slowly into the woods again.  

We were completely energized, having checked off a big item on our “animal wish list”!  We made our way through the little gateway town of West Yellowstone and into the mid-morning line of cars waiting to enter the park.  We knew that our late arrival would set us up for a crowded visit, but all along we had planned this day to be just a drive-thru visit to become assimilated and perhaps hatch a plan to maximize the coming days in the park.

Don’t show up at the park between 10 am and 4 pm if you want to avoid crowds…

The first and most lasting impression we had as we drove along the Madison River and deeper into the park was the immense grandeur and diversity before our eyes!  Crystal rushing waters, massive boulders, wildflowers in blues, yellows and orange were abounding.  It wasn’t ten more minutes before we looked out across a grassy valley along the river that we saw a herd of elk!  We quickly pulled over and stood in awe as we watched the huge animals make their way across their perfect habitat.  Elk sighting – CHECK!

Watching them move through the grasses and water was a real treat

That day I was able to wade in the Firepole River , where the rounded and colorful rocks under clear waters gave us a little glimpse into the beauty we would be seeing later in Glacier National Park (teaser to an incredible Part III of our Montana journey).

The clear, cold Firepole River on day #1 in YNP!

We stopped along the way at the less-busy “attractions” in the park that day, noting the location of the very popular sights so that we could visit another day at an earlier hour.  We quickly realized that this park is different in its topography with each turn we took.  Open grasslands, turned to mountain cliffs and misting geysers and smoke-pots.

We left in mid-afternoon, just as much of the park started to empty out, leaving the wildlife to their privacy for the evening.  Hungry, we sought some “Linner” (a mid-afternoon meal that combines lunch and dinner into one meal) at the aptly named Firehole BBQ, whose claim to fame was their appearance on an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives (BIG fans!).  SOLD!  We were all in!  I enjoyed what was perhaps the best brisket I have EVER HAD.  Andrew had a sampling of ribs and a pork BBQ sandwich, which were equally rewarding (he had been hunting a good rack of ribs for weeks and after a couple of disappointments, was rewarded well in West Yellowstone).

The restaurant was noticeably empty, and the young man that worked there said that this was nearing the “end of the busy season”, a surprise to us, feeling like mid-August was still the height of summer back east.  He went on to explain that the restaurant as well as most of West Yellowstone and even the National Park itself all shut down in the winter months, with cold weather not seen anywhere else in the continental US, and snow piled up as tall as buildings.  It was difficult to imagine on a beautiful August afternoon, but it was a solid reminder that this national treasure sits on harsh and precarious ground.

Over our two-week stay in the area, we spent a total of five days in the park, arriving earlier each time than the time before so that we could beat the crowds and find the animals at their most active.

We saw our first bison on day two in the park.  Having learned that it can be more important to watch for where cars are parked than watching for the wildlife itself, we pulled over on the side of the road and walked toward the gathering crowd.  In our not-so-distant view was a large male bison, laying in the grass in a light wooded area by a creek.  It was a sunny and warm day and he just seemed content to lie still while we took photos and admired his vast size and incredible beauty.  Wild bison – CHECK!  We were satisfied and exhilarated to finally see what Andrew had sought for a lifetime, and had no idea that in the coming days we would see hundreds more of these magnificent beasts.

We were blessed to see animals of all shapes and sizes, nearly every animal on our wish list , and many others that we hadn’t expected (we missed out on seeing any American Bald Eagles).  There were many black ravens, as well as some yet-to-be-identified birds (perhaps you bird lovers can help us in the comments).  Even the little chipmunks were adorable.  We enjoyed a sudden visit by a coyote on a back road we were scouting (another couple had seen a black wolf on this road a previous day, so we were hoping to strike it rich with a visit).  More moose, elk, many fish, and then, near the end of our visit, we saw the gathering crowd witnessing a mother black bear and her two cubs.    They were perhaps 100 yards away, devouring a huckleberry bush in the comfortably warm afternoon sun.  There were perhaps 100 humans looking through their cameras and binoculars for hours as these amazing creatures of God entertained us all.  The “oohs” and “aahs” were heard among the park visitors as the bear cubs could be seen leaving the bush and wandering up the hill to a log, where they licked and swatted playfully at each other.

The winner of our two-week visit was most certainly the bison.  We found many in both the Lamar and Hayden Valleys of the park.  Bison grunted, grazed, rolled in the dusty dirt to get relief from bugs, and occasionally, one male would tussle and butt heads with another as the males were in the rut and busy competing for females for mating.

As you meet fellow visitors to the park, invariably, the conversation tends to become an exciting discussion of the various wildlife encountered.  Everyone is happy to share photos, video and tips on locations for the best sightings you seek.  One couple shopping in a gift shop alongside us in West Yellowstone witnessed the carcass of a recently killed male bison being scavenged by other wildlife.  While there, they watched a video taken by another park guest of two bison in full mating battle, and watched as one bison gored the other in the head with his mighty horn, killing him instantly.  Seven park rangers then labored to move the body of the huge animal to a safer location where nature would take its course in the circle of life, feeding an abundance of other wild animals.

Beyond animals, the natural features of the land were like nothing we have ever seen before.  Old Faithful Geyser is the best known, and was absolutely amazing to see early one morning, but the beauty goes so far beyond this crowd pleaser.  The hydrothermal features included mud pots, lesser-known geyers, large swaths of downed trees from previous volcanic activity, bubbly fumaroles of gaseous waters, hot springs, steam vents and the near-constant smell of sulphur (one of the only times in my life the odor has not been offensive).  None of them disappointed.

We stopped at many road turnouts to take a peek at the various interesting spots.  Side roads took us to outlying areas that felt like we were part of a secret in nature, and we even found our way to a very, very, VERY old (50 million years old) petrified Redwood tree.  

A 50 million year old petrified Redwood tree

We ate and shopped our way through West Yellowstone, enjoying one of our best dinners at the Madison Crossing Lounge (try their cocktails!) on my birthday.  We ate huckleberry fudge ice cream one afternoon, and we even had a great check-up visit to the West Yellowstone Vet one afternoon with Bug and Calvin.

In what felt like a great departure from the camping life, we got tickets to see Disney’s Newsies at The Playmill Theatre, also on my birthday. It had been a number of years since we had been fortunate enough to see a live show (thanks, Covid), and this little summer stock theatre was just wonderful! The theatre was only perhaps a dozen rows at center stage and perhaps eight rows on two sides of the very small stage – so small that our seats shook as the actors sang and danced! At intermission, guests remained in seats and the actors brought concessions around for sale! Even as we left, we saw the actors dressed as ushers and ticket-takers for the next show of the evening; they truly did it all!

In the summer, there are two shows each day and three different shows continuously through the summer! The quality of the performance was quite impressive overall, and the small atmosphere made for a very personal performance.

The ONLY challenge we had (on soap box) was feeling comfortable in what seemed to be a warm vat of Covid – approximately 300 people (267 guests plus actors) packed into a very warm, very small theatre, elbow-to-elbow and knee-to-knee, with perhaps only a half dozen people choosing to wear masks. We went into the show knowing that vaccines and masks were not required, but we were not prepared for the tightness of the facility. Thankfully, we are vaccinated, and we wore our masks, and did not get sick, but I have no doubt that performances like these are part of what is driving the severe infection spread throughout the state this summer (off soap box).

Another day found us in Ennis, MT where we had a great lunch at Tavern 287, wandered through the Nearly New (thrift) Shoppe, and Willie’s Distillery, where Andy added to his bottle collection and we chatted with several retired service members that were hanging out in town to watch the 8th Annual Montana POW/MIA Ride To Remember ride down the main street (motorcycles).

On a long 12 hour “Sunday drive” road trip with the dogs, we combined a needed visit to Walmart (the best place to buy RV TP, lol) into a big loop south and around and up north again through Grand Teton National Park, which is adjacent to Yellowstone National Park.  We saw Jackson Hole and a number of little towns that catered to visitors with cabins, all terrain vehicles, biking, snow sports and much more.  We watched sunset at a turnout along another section of the Snake River, formed into layered terraces by glaciers millions of years ago, and then made our way through the evening pitch darkness through Yellowstone Park and back to our campsite by midnight.

We even took a little day trip up to Big Spring, close to our campground in Island Park, Idaho.  It is the birthplace of a river, where we could feed bits of hot dog to the eager and abundant trout that swarmed the warm spring water that is the headwaters of the Snake River.

In the end, Part II of our visit to Montana exceeded our already lofty expectations.  Some observations we made along the way, in no particular order of importance:

  1. There are no big grocery stores in much of the state.  The stores that are there are expensive and very busy and have a small town feel that made us stand out as outsiders.
  2. When visiting, enter the park EARLY.  The summer crowds are excessive frome 10 am – 4 pm, so plan accordingly to see the most sights and to have the potential of seeing the most wildlife.
  3. The population of all these popular areas swells significantly in the summer.  Island Park, Idaho, for example, has a population of 268, but has approximately 2.3 million visitors that stream through its main highway each year.
  4. We continue to notice that Montanoans are very friendly and welcoming in their state.  Since tourism is their 5th largest employer, they value our presence in their state and take great pride in being a part of such a special place.
  5. Many of the summer employees we met were not Montanoans at all, but rather out-of-state visitors that return each season to spend time in this outdoor paradise, earn some money, and then return to a warmer climate each winter.
  6. There are no sales taxes in Montana – and alcohol is remarkably affordable.  This makes for a fun time shopping and dining out!

And finally….we agree – Montana is indeed THE LAST BEST PLACE!  

Safe travels, and stay tuned for Part III – we promise this will be the BEST of the “last best”!

Visiting “The Last Best Place” Does Not Disappoint!

Montana, known as the “last best place” has not disappointed, but especially not here in the Jefferson River Canyon, likely still looking much like it did when Lewis and Clark explored the area oh so long ago.

For his entire adult life, my husband Andrew has kept one bucket list location in his heart.  Montana.  Known to him only by reputation, the state of Montana was his representation of peace, tranquility and escape from what troubled him.  He always imagined himself, his dog Jake, a log cabin, a big stack of firewood and a long snowy winter with mountain views and purposeful isolation.

When we began “re-dating” in 2014, he shared his “big sky country” dreams with me.  His dream evolved into our joint goal.  As our dating life moved on to married life, and as our travel plans evolved into a traveling lifestyle, Montana became number one on our destination list.

Montana, here we come!

So it was on July 21st, 2021 that we crossed the border from Wyoming into Montana in our big Ford dually, towing our Grand Design RV home on wheels!  Quite literally, we got goosebumps and cheered while driving down the highway past the “Welcome to Montana” sign.  Andy instantly called his mom to share the excitement, since she knew all too well how much arriving in this location meant to his soul.

Cheers and high fives…we made it!

With the caveat of a two week campground stay just over the border in Idaho (to visit Yellowstone National Park in Montana and Wyoming), we will be exploring Montana for 56 days before leaving on about September 15th on our way to South Dakota!  Even in our Idaho campsite, we look out across our Northern “backyard” of public land and see vast mountains that are located in Montana.

Now nearly halfway through our Montana adventure, we are here to report that the state has not disappointed in the least!

As bucket list items go, one could argue that Andrew didn’t exactly get what he imagined for his Montana experience.  Andrew didn’t make Montana a solitary experience as he has always dreamed it would be.  He didn’t stay in a cabin with mountain views.  There was no snow at our feet this summer in the “Treasure State”, and with warm summer temperatures, an endless fire in the fireplace with a big stack of wood didn’t happen either.  And sadly, loyal and wonderful Jake did not live long enough to make the trip west by Andrew’s side.

But he would probably share that the real life version of his bucket list to “the last best place” has filled his soul in a bigger, deeper way than a check-mark on a list.  Our “cabin in the woods” was our RV, set up next to wide open spaces on and near state and public lands.  Our fireplace and stack of firewood was instead a rare evening campfire on a cool night, and the snow was only occasionally glimpsed on a far away mountain top.  And while Jake was with us in spirit and thought, we had three other furry friends by our side the entire way; Bug, Calvin and Stencil have loved Montana as well! 

It isn’t a mountainside cabin in the Montana forest, but our little cabin on wheels has ever changing and beautiful scenery.

The most important part for both of us, however, is that we did it together.  Because all these years of imagining his solitary journey to Montana was really a beautiful way to escape what was unhappy in his life.  His Montana dream was a way to safely frame for himself and others that he wanted peace and love in his life.  As is always the case, God listened and led.  Andrew listened and followed.  He no longer wants to be alone with his dog and escape to a snowy wilderness.  He (and I) wanted a loving partner with whom he could share the rest of his life. Whether that life led him to Montana or around the world mattered little anymore, because his life became the journey rather than the destination.

God led us. We are now companions on the journey.
This song has been a fav of mine for a really long time, but as we gaze out over something spectacular on this leg of the trip, or sit with new or old traveling friends by the campfire, or when I simply take a quiet walk in the cool morning air, I am reminded of this song and the beauty of all of our journeys in life.

WHAT WE SAW AND WHERE WE SAW IT

Stop 1 – Billings, MT – We stayed at the first-ever KOA campground, and it was quite nice (I am not usually a fan of KOAs, but this one was one that we enjoyed).  It sits right alongside the Yellowstone River, which is beautiful with its white shores and perfectly smooth and rounded stones of all sizes in the river bed.  

Oddly, this is also the place where a camping neighbor and I witnessed a trailer being hauled through the campground a bit too fast…and with their awning still completely extended!  Luckily, they noticed their lapse in “careful campsite take-down” and stopped up the road before they got on the highway (mental note to myself to be extra careful on travel days, ‘cause we don’t wanna be THAT guy!).

We adventured into downtown Billings and found a great locally owned non-profit fair trade store called Global Village where we bought some fabulous gifts for family members.  We bought some books and goodies at non-profit This House Of Books, a unique co-op style bookstore aiming to keep small-town bookstores alive!  

We also found our way to Billings’ downtown farmer’s market where we were sure to get some Flathead cherries, a Montana summer tradition.  We came home with an armful of corn on the cob, chokecherry jelly, cheese balls, perfectly ripe peaches and handmade tortillas, all local products that make Farmer’s Market shopping a favorite pastime of ours.

The next visit in our travels is perhaps Andrew’s favorite so far.  As the weeks of 100 plus degrees continued, we were able to use our America the Beautiful National Parks Pass for the first time with a visit to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.  The telling of our experience will be a story for a future post, as it is an important and special place that deserves more time and attention than I can provide here.  To be sure, any trip to the state should include a visit to this historic site.

Fun music at the Farmer’s Music!

Stop 2 – Livingston, MT – Osen’s RV Park was conveniently located just a few minutes drive from Livingston.  It is neat, quiet and has one of the nicest, cleanest and lushest dog parks we have seen out west so far (security cameras on the fence overlooking dog owners might be the key to getting certain folks to clean up after their dogs).  The new campground owners were hospitable and we enjoyed the quiet and simplicity of the park and the small grassy plots at each site.

Livingston was a great little walkable town despite the continuing heat wave and limited vistas due to smoke from distant wildfires.  We found fun little shops and restaurants and as has been the theme this summer, many friendly folks. 

In a quirky coincidence, we happened to shop in and visit with the very nice owner of Dan Bailey’s Outdoor Company while visiting Livingston.  We learned about his love of cycling and fly fishing. We met his dog (we have met several great dogs in local fly fishing stores) and shared a little of our travels with him as well.  The very next day, that store owner was in the news with a follow-up story to an incident that occurred between Fox’s Tucker Carlson and a man named Dan Bailey in the same store in Livingston just days before our arrival!  The incident was recorded and the posted video went viral.  Given that this verbal altercation was initiated by a man with no connection to the store bearing his name, the store’s owner felt it important to clear up any confusion that followed and distance themselves from the incident.  So up popped this story shortly after we visited, with the friendly owner speaking of the incident that had brought them national attention for unwanted reasons.  Small world….or is it big brother Google that noticed that my phone had been at that store?

Our best meal was at the joint venture of Gil’s Goods (the food) and The Murray Bar (where we ate the food).  Filled on a busy weeknight with authentic cowboy hat-laden locals, outdoorsmen and visitors, we sat at a high-top table and enjoyed a delicious meal.  My Greek salad an Falafel (yes, in MT) was among the best I have had for quite a while, Andy’s brick-oven pizza was a good treat and our drinks of choice were extremely affordable.  Andrew’s go-to of Crown Royal on the rocks was a generous double pour and my jalapeno margarita was very well crafted, with jalapeno flavor infused into the tequila onsite.  

We then wandered across the street to Uncorked, a wine bar and store set in an old train depot that was relegated to the outdoors due to Covid.  It turned out to be a great evening on a covered patio, sitting by the train tracks and bustling with a few other busy tables.  We shared a bottle of wine, enjoyed talking with a table of local senior citizens out for an evening of wine and charcuterie plates, and watched the rhythmic coming and going of the trains.

We spent our 6th wedding anniversary (August 1st for those kiddos that missed it) taking a beautiful Sunday drive with the dogs through nearby Paradise Valley and the Custer Gallatin National Forest.  With scenery that wanders along the Yellowstone River, this valley is a place that we could find ourselves building that cabin of our dreams (if not for the price tag of land in this state!).  

We took an impromptu detour into the forest and found ourselves on a tiny dirt road, passing bible camps, beautiful ranches, private getaway cabins and backcountry camping in tents and trailers of varying sizes.  As we rounded a turn in the low mountain terrain, we came upon what we later found to be the location of a devastating wildfire in 2013.  It was incredible to see how the fire jumped over valleys and took turns on certain mountainsides, only to decimate what ultimately was hundreds of acres.  

Now more than eight years later, the green underbrush and wildflowers are growing among the blackened sticks of the mature trees that once stood over them.  It will take quite some time for full restoration to occur, but it was both a sad and beautiful way to see Mother Nature work her magic.  What began as a lightning strike, raged into a wildfire that cleared an area of forest that will eventually fully rejuvenate as part of a natural and needed process.  At a time when we struggle as a world where wildfires are too frequent and too large due to the manmade harm from global warming, it was a moment of balance to be reminded that great good can still come from great devastation.

Bug and Calvin loved the large plush dog park at Osen’s RV Park
Wine bar with a train serenade

Stop #3 – Whitehall, MT – Whitehall, Montana is about 50 minutes from Bozeman, but we ended up with less time to explore than we had anticipated because shortly before arriving, we discovered a cracked rim on a truck tire which needed replacement sooner than later.  We pre-ordered the rim to be shipped to Bozeman ahead of our arrival and then lucked out on getting it replaced when we arrived because someone else with an appointment was a “no-show”, opening up a fortuitous slot for us as we stood before the employee explaining our plight (we drove nearly an hour to get here, we are only going to be in the area for a week, and this is our only vehicle – “so can you help us?”).

Back in Whitehall, we were excited to see the absolutely stunning and open layout of the Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park.  We were conversely disappointed to see that we had NO cell service throughout most of the campground.  This situation made the perfect opportunity to install and test out our WeBoost cell signal booster.  Once installed, we were happy to at least get one or two bars for the rest of our weeklong stay (we had read that a booster can improve low service, but cannot provide service where none exists, so even the slight improvement helped us conduct required vacation rental business during our stay).

The highlight of our stay was a two-hour Classic Tour of the Lewis and Clark Caverns.  It was about a ¾ mile hike to the entrance of the cave, complete with dramatic vistas of the valley and Jefferson River Canyon (a tributary of the Missouri River).

The tour itself had an interesting start where we had to remain silent and wear masks to protect the bats that lived just inside the entrance, so as to keep them calm, safe and healthy.  Once we walked deeper into the cavern, we crouched, shimmied and even slid on our bottoms at times through the many-leveled caverns.  With a quick refresher course in minerals, geology, stalagmites (from the floor) and stalactites (from the ceiling), we looked on in wonder at the physical beauty and the great history.

Explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark never actually discovered the caverns, but they camped below on the Jefferson River and explored the surrounding area, so they were credited for their work by naming the park and the caverns after them.

One nice feature about this tour as compared to the ghost cave tour we took in Colorado in June, is that it was well lit and had many railings installed along the way.  Stairs were carved into the limestone which helped me maneuver more comfortably in the shadows and uneven flooring.  Also, the tour began at one end of the cave and ended many feet lower on the mountainside, where a long tunnel had been blown through the stone for easier egress.

While in the area, the heat wave finally broke free when several days of periodic storms brought cooler temperature and some much needed rain.  Much of the wildfire smoke that we had been seeing since arrival in Colorado in June was finally clearing out on some days, and we were much more comfortable and able to enjoy the outdoors even more.

The next stop upon which we will report is actually a two-week period of time when we will LEAVE Montana for camping, so that we can have cloe access to the West entrance of Yellowstone National Park!  But there is much more Montana ahead for us this summer, so stay tuned!

Safe travels, and may your bucket list journey be filled with joy and discovery!

You’ll be with us always, Jake, in our hearts and memories!

This is The Best Campsite Of My Camping Life

A panoramic sunset just outside our camper door.

Sometimes the very best campgrounds have no cable, no wifi, no sewer hookups and limited amenities.  These are the campgrounds that use their natural resources – provided by Mother Nature (and a massive man-made lake) to become among the best out there.

Well, I have found the best – at least My Best – and it is a hidden gem that I am willing to share with you.  Just don’t tell too many people, please!  We want to return there someday, and I hope my best campground ever still has my best campsite available when that day arrives!

Let me set the picture.  The campground is in the rural upcountry area of South Carolina (the northwest corner of the state).  It sits on a series of three very small islands that are connected by a narrow road in the middle of 18,372 acre Lake Keowee.  This area is a water-lover’s paradise – pontoon boats, canoes, kayaks, speed boats and jet skis – just a few of the watercraft you will find.  Fishing, water skiing, swimming, sunbathing, hiking and more can all be found very nearby.

Aaaaahhhhhhhh.

But the thing that makes this place so darn special is the view – just sit in your camp chair and take in the 360-degree amazing water views.  Add a small breeze, the warm fall sunshine, and a campfire at dusk and you have all the makings of a perfect camping day.

Okay, here are the details…and then some more photos at the end to prove my point.  

Mile Creek County Park is in the foothills of Pickens County, SC.  You can visit MileCreekPark.com to find out more about the park itself.  If you want to reserve sites at the campground that is part of the park, simply go to ReserveAmerica.com.  The roads are narrow and sloping at times.  The sites vary in shape and size and setup significantly, so don’t fudge any camper lengths when selecting your site.  Even if you cannot snag a waterfront site, you will still enjoy lovely views, as these are tiny islands, and these sites are perched high, tucked low, and hidden among trees – giving you a feeling of privacy that belies the closeness of the sites to each other.

Our GPS screen on the drive into the campground gave us great perspective about the size of these three tiny islands. Our site was located at the last blue breadcrumb shown by the read triangle (the top edge of the 2nd island).

We had only four nights to stay at Mile Creek Park, so we never left our little island.  Why bother?  We had what was essentially a little private sandy beach beside our site that I imagine would be great for summertime swimming, although even during our late October visit, we spotted someone swimming nearby in the lake.  We had trees all around us that were changing into their fall color show.  And we had water – lots of water….On. All. Sides.

A view of our campsite from across the lake (campground island number three) shows our rocky shore and our sandy shore.

Yep, it is my favorite campsite ever.  Site #42.  Of course, we’ve only been FT RVing for 16 weeks, so I am really excited about what great beauty we have yet to find along the way, because this is a beautiful country.

A setting sun on our tiny Home Sweet Home on wheels.

Safe travels – and may we all find the perfect spot just to sit a while.

Note that ALL of the following photos were take FROM OUR CAMPSITE.

How Two Newbie FT RVers Became Tourists In A Pandemic

Being tourists during a Pandemic…

When you launch full-time RV life in the middle of a pandemic, it ends up looking a little different from how you imagined it.  Sure, many outdoor adventures can generally still happen, but you have to jockey for position on the hiking trail and keep your mask at the ready as you encounter fellow travelers.  You pack a lot of meals instead of exploring small-town restaurants along the way, and you jump for joy when one of those little foodie spots touts touchless take-out so that you might enjoy the meal in your vehicle, even though you have to miss out on the atmosphere, people and beauty of the area you are visiting.  Yes, Covid RV life is a little different.

So it wasn’t a big surprise when our first destination, in Waldo, Florida, was really a “stay-at-RV-home” kinda time.  We were there for a month to take care of the last of our domicile to-do items (get Florida license plates on our truck), move our last baby chick out of our nest and into her own (she is attending college in Gainesville), and generally catch up on RV maintenance while trying to stay cool in the oppressive humidity and heat of Florida in August.  We rested and recovered from the prior months of chaos  (prepping the house for sale, getting rid of 90 percent of our belongings, organizing financially while quitting jobs and saying goodbye to family members) so we knew this would not be a “touristy” time for us.  

We opted out of the giant Waldo Flea Market that was across the street from our campground – it would have been great fun if we didn’t see a need to avoid crowds.  A visit to my daughter’s college campus was relegated to a drive-thru version, and we weren’t able to stop at the campus bookstore to buy the obligatory college t-shirt, as it was still operating under curbside pickup service.  We couldn’t even go to the Santa Fe Teaching Zoo for a visit, as it was closed to the public during the pandemic.  Outdoor fun was on hiatus for us, because frankly, it was just too dang hot to see the University of Florida Bat Houses and the Kanapaha Botanical Gardens.  With years of education ahead of her in Gainesville, we will happily visit on future trips to see our daughter.

We had to pass on the Waldo Flea Market on this trip to central Florida

It was in an unexpected place that we finally got to dip our toes into the tourist waters.  We moved on from Waldo and made reservations for a quiet little campground near Wytheville, Virginia (pronounced “with-ville”) for four nights around Labor Day weekend, located in the rural, southwestern tip of the state, and it was just what we needed and wanted.  The first morning, we were met with the first of falling leaves and a crispness in the air that were familiar signs of the fall season.  Ahhhhhh!  Let the tourists begin!  

First stop – Wytheville’s Smallest Church!  What a perfect stop on our first day of exploring North America as FT RVers!  The church is just off Exit 73 of I-81 but also near I-77 and Route 11 in Wytheville, Virgina.  Tucked between a small country road and corn fields, the highway traffic and billboards were close by but quickly forgotten as we pulled into the tiny parking lot, sufficient for perhaps three cars. 

Surrounded by billboards, corn fields and beautiful gardens, Wythville’s Smallest Church was worth the stop!

There are beautiful and well maintained gardens with flowers and small statues, a miniature bell tower, and of course, the tiny little chapel.  The creators that were inspired to faithfully build this special place in 2010 thought of everything, even installing a rainwater collection system at the back of the church to make sure there is water onsite for the pretty flowers.

We imagined that the cute bell tower, with a border of flowers, would sound lovely at a couple’s marriage vows renewal or wedding – something that is offered at Wythville’s Smallest Church.

The good feelings we felt upon arrival grew even more the moment we walked through the doors.  The details are fantastic – beautiful wood interior walls and peaked roof, ceiling fans to keep cool, three tiny pews, a petite pulpit, and a prayer book full of special intentions left by prior visitors.  We added our own prayer – and sat for a short while just to feel the Holy Spirit come over us.  It was a magical place to discover.  Here is a little website with some information about Wytheville’s Smallest Church – http://www.wythesmallchurch.com/, a worthy stop if you happen to be headed through the area, even if just for a break from the monotony of a long drive.

The chapel has baptismal waters symbolism both inside and outside.
Prayers, left by visitors, adorn the board at the back of the chapel, and in a book of intentions at the pulpit.

After our visit, I was inspired to see if tiny churches might be “a thing”, much like tiny houses.  I found this blog post that has now created a whole new special bucket list of tiny churches around the country that I hope we can visit along the way!  

https://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/36537

From the website for Whytheville's Smallest Church ~

A Prayer Chapel in Wytheville VA dedicated to the Lord Jesus Christ.

If you find yourself tired or confused, fleeing or seeking,this place is for you.

Take a moment out of the everyday race and enjoy some time with the One that made you...HE is already here, waiting for you!
Be sure to take a few moments to stroll through the pretty gardens – the caretakers of the property clearly give a lot of loving care to be a place in honor of the Lord.

The next day of our tourist weekend, we decided to take advantage of the beautiful early fall weather and discovered the Big Walker lookout National Scenic Byway.  The drive is outlined in several places online, but we liked this website for a mile-by-mile description.  http://www.scenicbeauty-va.com/  We stopped along the route at the Jefferson National Forest at the Stoney Fork Campground.  There was guest day-parking so that we could hike the marked trails with our two doggos and take a stroll through the campground as well.  There is a creek that meanders all throughout the park, creating pretty photo ops, fishing spots and fresh, Covid-free air!

This National Forest Campground is in a lovely location, with a creek wandering through the entire property. It was enjoyed by campers of all sizes – and lots of folks enjoying the natural outdoors.
There were trails for miles, but even a walk through the campground was a nice way to spend some time with the dogs and each other.

The byway weaves and turns, and climbs to an altitude of 3405 feet.  It would be a gorgeous drive any time of the year, but I did make a mental note that any part of the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia are a must-see future stop during peak fall colors!  

The skies were clear and beautiful on Labor Day weekend as we looked out over this southwest corner of Virginia into the vastness of five states.

Our final stop of the weekend rounded out our brief Wytheville visit with a piece of kitsch Americana – Big Walker Lookout.  This quirky place is the oldest privately owned scenic attraction in the state and includes a small country tourist-stop store that sells, among other things, delicious ice cream (I recommend the Lemon Crunch!).  Most weekends, they bring in a local artist or author to sell their wares and a band to play music for visitors.  It was a little tricky to maneuver safely in a Covid world, as masks and social distancing were certainly not the norm in this area and our Sunday afternoon visit was perhaps their busiest time.  The local Gospel band was a joy to hear on this sunny and mild September day and created a great atmosphere.  There were locals that stopped by for the afternoon and a group of motorcycle club riders enjoying themselves equally.

The views from the top of the mountain were pretty, but what our eyes were immediately drawn to was the 100 foot observation tower looming above the scene.  Constructed entirely of metal scaffolding-type material and wooden stair planks on a brick and cement base, it looked every bit of its age.  Attached to the base of the tower was a swinging, suspended wire/rope bridge that rose out above the parking area next to the country store.  It was all built as part of a creative, family-owned small business that was launched at the top of Big Walker Mountain in 1947 to capitalize on the beauty of the land.  It worked, because here we were, all these years later, prepared to pay $8 each to be able to see the views above the tree-line, another 100 feet higher.

Built in the 1940s, we noticed the open stairs, open railings and handmade aesthetic immediately, and contemplated for about 15 minutes if we should ascend to the top or be satisfied with the views at 3405 feet.

As we took to the stairs, it was apparent that this was going to be as tricky as we had expected – neither of us are fans of heights, and it took us at least 15 minutes of discussion to even decide to scale the tower!  Our usual Covid safety measures such as minimizing the use of high-touch areas ended immediately, as we both took a two-handed death grip on every inch of railing to the top.  The age of the tower was apparent, as was our awareness that at the time it was built, the safety standards we benefit from today were certainly NOT applied during construction, which really added to our wariness.  There was “chicken-wire” style coverage below the railings and broken stair treads  – both with gaps large enough that I was happy in that moment that I no longer had fearless young children that wanted to scale the tower.

There were a number of little children that blasted past us, up and down the tower – as our tentative climb continued.  I giggled a little at the contrasting views observers must have seen from below, but we certainly still felt that our fear was reasonable and expected.  We slowly and steadily took each step, breathing deeply through our masks, casting our eyes in front of us rather than down, up or across the horizon.  Our breathing became heightened, our heart-rates increased, and we eventually conquered our fears and made it to the top!  The views were beautiful, and we quickly snapped photos to document our achievement.  We could feel the tower swaying in the breeze, so we maintained a steady grip on the railing and decided quickly it was time to go downstairs.

Even the views from the ground, on the observation platform were rewarding.
Look Ma! No hands! We made it to the top!

The trip back down the tower was unexpectedly easier than the trip up had been.  As we descended, the band was singing and playing the beautiful strains of Amazing Grace (“Was Grace that taught my heart to fear; And Grace, my fears relieved”) – perhaps grace had gotten us up and down that tower!  We were victorious and proud of ourselves, feeling as if we had just done something that was a little risky, certainly a little scary for us, and gave us a thrilling achievement for a Sunday afternoon.  

It was at the landing as we left the tower to reward ourselves with an ice cream cone that we were faced with a new reality.  Walking past us, toward the tower, was a group of several conservative religious, perhaps Mennonites, ready to make the same climb.  Among them, a woman, wearing the traditional dark, plain dress, white hair covering over her little bun and even a mask for safety.  This dear woman looked to be about 85 years old – with a slow gait and a hunched back from years of living – and she took to the stairs without hesitation.  With our egos feeling slightly jarred, we smiled, took a deep breath, shook the jitters out of our knees, and were grateful to be back on solid ground.  We will try to remember this adventurous old woman as we contemplate any future tourist stops that seem a little frightening to us – we tackled this tower – and we are now ready to let our adventures begin – through God’s grace and blessings!

The suspension bridge went from the base of the tower, out over the parking lot in front of the BW Country Store.
“Quick, honey – snap that photo and let’s get down from this tower!”
Safe travels, and enjoy your own "risky" adventures!