Recognizing that we are big planners by nature, Andy (Andrew to most everyone except perhaps me and his late paternal grandmother) and I made a decision before the launch of our nomadic life to do our best to PLAN AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE. We wanted to loosen up the constraints we sometimes put on ourselves and be sure to push ourselves to spontaneous or new-found adventures and fun. But there was one place, or in particular, one family we wanted to visit. So off to the Upcountry Region of South Carolina we went in October 2020 for a two-and-a-half week stay.
Little did we know just how awesome this area is! The Upcountry Region of South Carolina (and a bit of NC as well) is nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains and is made up of six counties in the northwest corner of the state. If you like waterfalls (more than 120 of them!), hiking, golfing, truly great urban centers, lakes, watersports, and hidden roadside natural gems, then this is an area to put on your travel bucket list.
We arrived in Pickens to visit our friend and his family. Steve was the best man in our wedding. He has been my husband’s brother-from-another-mother for decades. Months can go between calls or texts, but these two fellas have remained friends because of what I think is a kinship and likeness (both their appearance and their personalities). Quiet, smart and unceasingly polite and thoughtful, Steve made sure we didn’t have to do any heavy lifting when it came to planning our stay in the area.
The guys went golfing, the girls went to a cookie decorating class, we took long scenic drives, stopped at roadside rock formations, hiked to some gorgeous waterfalls, ate at some local restaurants (open air, outdoor and/or masks on), and even camped together at my new favorite campsite (see this post all about it https://timetravelsandtribulations.com/this-is-the-best-campsite-of-my-camping-life/ ). Steve provided daily suggestions for sightseeing and fun – whether it be just the two of us, or visiting as a group. They were the consummate hosts – helping us tour the sights, visit their home, meet their friends and feed us well all along the way! No planning needed – only fun to be had!
Below are some photographic highlights from our visit. If you would like to read more about the region, take a look at this site (https://upcountrysc.com/) and PLAN to have a great visit! Very special thanks to our friends Steve, Kenda and Katie. We will be back – not just because the area is wonderful, but because we love to visit our friends in the Palmetto State!
Safe travels – especially when visiting your far-flung friends!
Since my dear husband and I are not (yet) regular boondockers in unimproved land areas (#campinggoals), we are not often faced with the feeling of isolation and true solitude. We both grew up in a world without cell phones, where our parents were not able to reach us or determine our exact location all day as we played outside in the woods behind our neighborhood. As children, that was normal. Teenaged Andrew and Tina would drive at night on a country road (trying to avoid parental detection, but also not easily able to reach anyone if we got an unexpected flat tire, or ran out of gas (a more likely scenario in my teenage years). As teenagers, that was normal. We were comfortable with it because that was the only option back then.
Today, however, that feeling of being completely on your own, if only for a few hours, seldom happens. If a child leaves the house, a parent generally has the ability to know where they are located. If a problem happens, help is usually a simple phone call away.
For the first time in a long time, Andy and I recalled those feelings as we drove through Fargo, GA on a gorgeous fall day in October 2020. It was Halloween weekend, and our destination was the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, also known as the Okefenokee Swamp (cue spooky music). The one-lane road laid out ahead of us, as straight as a pin, with small pine trees and natural green growth on both sides. We drove and drove, windows down, the dogs excitedly sensing that our destination was near. We rode for 20 miles from Fargo, down Route 177, with the last dozen miles absent of businesses, homes or crossroads of any kind. Miles before our destination, our cell service became unusable. Texts stopped coming and going. As dusk fell, we felt like we had already left civilization before we had even arrived.
The entrance to the park is gated and closed each evening, and it felt as if we were leaving one world and entering a new one as we passed through it. It was after 5:00 pm when we arrived, so with the Steven C. Foster State Park Trading Post closed for the day, we went straight to our campsite.
The next morning we awoke to a very quiet morning and we took a walk. The campground only has 66 campsites, and it was largely empty (and grew emptier at the end of the weekend – spoiler alert, after the weekend, we were one of only three campers on our loop). Our first task had little to do with seeking solitude. In fact, sad to say, we needed to find cell service so that I could handle our small vacation rental business in the coming six days, and Andy needed to make sure he could see his Baltimore Ravens play football on Sunday from our remote location.
We hadn’t wandered 50 feet from our campsite before we turned a corner and saw deer. At first a couple, then several. They were accustomed to human presence, but still wild and skittish. It was as if they understood that we were a temporary visitor to their land, their space. They obliged us, and allowed us to watch in awe at their morning beauty.
That morning we arrived at the Trading Post, located about a half mile from our campsite, really hoping we could meet our tech needs and still take in this beautiful place. As we approached the building, I noticed a couple on their cell phone video-chatting with their family members. As we entered the screened-in front porch, I saw a gentleman on his laptop. I was encouraged. Upon entering the store, we were met with an oasis of civilization. Camping supplies, snacks and tourist trinkets were all for sale. This was also the place we could rent boats to see the swamp up close, or even schedule a guided tour. But the moment of victory was the confirmation of free wifi! It only worked in and around the trading post, but it was blazing fast and able to handle my email, file processing and wifi phone calling and texting needs for the next several days!
Later that day, Andy had managed to maneuver the satellite dish to acquire the minimum NFL channels needed to watch the Sunday game, albeit at about 85% satellite connection. “Please Lord, don’t let it rain on Sunday!”, I whispered under my breath (ultimately, it DID rain on game day – for about 1 ½ hours, right up until kick-off, when the skies finally cleared and the game came into focus!).
Victory times two! Time to enjoy Okefenokee!
We spent five days immersed in the wildlife. Every hike we took, every trail we wandered, and even just walking down the state park road, we stumbled upon a new animal discovery. We saw a multitude of deer, several bucks included. We watched them eating, running and scratching their backs in the late afternoon sunshine. Andy spotted a raccoon and we enjoyed the sight of many birds of all sizes. We saw bears on three occasions, surprisingly close to the state park employee resident cottages, sitting below the acorn trees. Other campers had reported that the bears had also been seen in trees, so we became adept at looking up, down and all around us as we walked.
On Halloween night, we lit a campfire, and set out a small bowl of candy as about a half dozen children came by to keep the Trick-or-Treat tradition alive in a very different location. What we noted was the absolute darkness of the sky. Absent of any light pollution, the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge reveals a big dark sky that was wondrous – it is difficult to describe the vastness and open miles of blackness.
The highlight of our stay, however, was an afternoon on a rented skiff, out on the water trails of the swamp. Having received surprisingly little instruction for its operation (once we finally asked!), we were pushed off the little dock and out onto the open waters that completely surround the little island that the campground sits upon.
The initial waterways of the swamp are wide open and the birds were soaring over our heads. There were other birds that stood on fallen trees, waiting to spot their next meal. The landscape was unique and stunning. The quiet feeling of being alone in this natural swamp world was pervasive for most of the next four hours we spent on the water. We spotted only three other groups of people in our water travels – two skiffs like ours and a group of six kayakers paddling silently with binoculars and cameras in hand.
Our goal for the day, however, was to see alligators. With a small map in hand, marked with water trails and natural points of interest (hollow tree, Alligator Cove, Five Sisters cluster of trees, etc), we noted the wooden signs staked into the swampy waters with arrows to guide us, and made a left turn down a water “trail”, identified the narrow open water surrounded on both sides by millions of lily pads.
It immediately grew darker, as the overhead tree cover and Spanish Moss filtered out the sun. Andy had to drive the skiff slower, to adjust for the obstacles in the water – mysterious bumps underneath us that were likely hidden logs of long ago fallen Cypress trees. I was reminded of a 1970s animated Disney movie called the “Rescuers”, where an international team of mice flew to the spooky bayou swamp to rescue a little girl named Penny. The mystery animal sounds, the black waters, and the shadows cast by large overhead growth all created an impressive backdrop for our day’s adventure.
It didn’t take long before we noticed bubbles under the water, and small ripples on the surface that told us we had just missed an animal of some sort startled by our presence. We were keenly aware that there were MANY eyes upon us, and we would have to remain quiet and alert if we wanted to see our prized alligator. About an hour into our travels, we were rewarded.
Andy saw him first. Just the eyeballs initially, then the crown of the head, the long snout. The rest of this massive alligator remained hidden in the water. His head alone we estimated to be more than a foot long. I immediately began snapping photos in the general area he described seeing the gator, but it was another 30 seconds or more before I actually SAW the beast and was aware of him through the camera lens. All of the wildlife, especially the alligators, are incredibly well disguised in their natural habitat.
Invigorated by our sighting, and thrilled with the size of the prize, we relaxed and were able to see the rest of the phenomenal water world in which we were now fully immersed. I jokingly reminded Andy that I was worth more alive than dead, in case he had enough of me already, as this would be the perfect place to plan the disposal of any evidence of ne’er-do-well activities. I also wildly wondered that this was the perfect place for a band of criminal brothers to live a life of seclusion and safety from the world that wanted them caught for their bad acts (cue more spooky music).
We traveled about ten miles into the watery day trails on our skiff and were fortunate enough to spot two more alligators. They were both smaller than our first, but both were completely OUT of the water, sunning themselves on logs. We accidently coasted to within four feet of one (learning to maneuver the skiff), and thankfully, that alligator did not flinch one muscle.
Upon our return to the civilization of the Trading Post, we missed our final turn into the canal that led to the dock, a final reminder of how far away we were from the human world to which we were so accustomed. This was truly a special place set aside by our nation to provide refuge for wildlife, and we were so blessed to be able to become a part of it for six days. We were rewarded with breathtaking sightings of animals, natural growth that was astounding, and just enough time apart from the human world to feel enveloped by God’s great design.
Relaxing on our little skiff, taking in the beauty of God’s natural outdoors.
Safe travels, and Go Gators (double entendre intended)!
When in grade school, I remember studying early American history, including our earliest settlements and the Revolutionary War. History was neither my favorite nor least favorite subject, but I did enjoy the projects. One project in particular was creating a Powhatan Native American village built from sticks and straw and hay and rocks that I found in the woods behind our house. It was the artist in me, rather than the historian, that could always carry the day and make up for any academic gaps I had in history. If it was interesting to me, as arts and crafts always were, then it made an impression on me.
But it was a family camping trip in my late pre-teen days that I remember most and that brought the classroom history to life for me – a summer visit to the Jamestown Settlement that made an interesting and lasting impression on my childhood memories, so much so that it all came back to me four decades later when my husband I traveled to the Virginia Historic Triangle.
You do not need to be a history buff to enjoy the Historic Triangle of Virginia. It is really appropriate for just about everyone. Really. Adults, children of all ages, Americans, international visitors, history buffs and those that barely survived American History class in high school – they all can find a place here. Our September 2020 visit left us wanting more, because the more we explored, the more we wanted to see.
The obvious stops are Jamestown, Yorktown and Williamsburg, and we only got to see two of the three. A sprained ankle (me) and some unexpected eye doctor appointments (also me), chewed up many of our days and left us knowing that we hope to return to the area, perhaps in a post-Covid world, hopefully injury-free, and be able to dig deeper into what the area has to offer. Nonetheless, we had a great visit and experienced some fun and learning along the way.
We decided it was best to go in chronological order, so we started at Jamestown Settlement (we did not have time to visit the archeological site of Jamestown Settlement where digs continue to discover history even now). Among the first things I noticed at this recreation of America’s first permanent English settlement was that the Powhatan Native American huts are still there as I remembered them! The historically accurate Jamestown fort was there as well, along with the addition of three replica ships that brought the settlers to the area – the Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery, all featuring interpreters wearing 17th-century wardrobe and filled with wonderful historically accurate knowledge that helps you truly feel the incredible challenges these early settlers must have suffered to try to survive.
This is where history comes to life, with a scattering of really friendly and well-informed museum employees that can discuss their historical areas of expertise. You can easily tell that they love history and love that their job is to share their love of history with others. We spoke with guides that were knowledgeable in foods of the era and medical care. Peeking in on the living quarters of the inhabitants was eye-opening, including the “survival cannibalism: that is discussed, something that I certainly did not recall being taught in grade school!
Inside the Jamestown Settlement museum is a vast array of artifacts and educational displays. I highly recommend the introductory video as a way to start your visit, so you can learn some of the historical context and details, or brush up on the history lessons you forgot long ago.
Several days later we visited the American Revolutionary Museum at Yorktown. The quality of both the museum and the outdoor living history areas, which included a continental army encampment and a revolutionary-era farm were impressive. The indoor museum was expansive and also included a wonderful film and exhibition galleries. Equally well-informed employees were available to guide us and answer questions. This was truly a place that a history buff would spend an entire day, but it was walkable enough so that in only a couple of hours we could get a good understanding of the historic significance of Yorktown. As proudly pointed out to us, the most special and valuable artifact in the museum is the rare July 1776 broadside printing of the Declaration of Independence on display in a large circular gallery in the museum.
What impressed us most overall about both Jamestown Settlement and the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown was the overall quality. Both properties were accessible, in good order, very clean and well maintained, and as neat as a pin. We felt safe at all times in a Covid world. The breadth of the display content and the span of history covered were impressive. The admission price of $27.50 per adult ($16.50 children 6 – 12; under 6 free) for a combination ticket to both locations within seven days, appears to be put to good use and worthwhile. Other ticket options are also available.
Beyond the obvious history museums most of us expect of the area, there is much more to discover. Historic Yorktown is a beautifully appointed waterside destination that was a great stop along after a few hours of museum visits. We enjoyed an outdoor meal on the water and drove briefly through the historic town and battlefields that reminded me a lot of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.
Among our favorite little adventures was a three-hour semi-private sail boat charter. It was just us, Captain Dan and one other couple sailing on the beautiful York River. There are a number of similar options, on bigger or different types of boats, but this was perfect for us. The Captain pointed out several routine overhead flights by Air Force One and we had the opportunity to pass by two immense US Naval ships that harbor near the Coleman Memorial Bridge and travel weekly (turning the center of the bridge to “open” it so that the tall ships can pass and head out to nearby Norfolk. We watched the opening and closing of the Coleman Memorial Bridge (not sure why, as no Naval ship was passing through) and enjoyed a water’s edge view of Yorktown, a Naval Weapons Station and even Bruce Hornsby’s mother’s house. But the highlight of the day was watching dolphins swim peacefully and playfully on all sides of our sailboat. The captain indicated that it was a late-season treat, as he had not seen any dolphins on the river for the previous ten days. The joy and beauty of these creatures was all around us, first one or two, then at least eight or more in a group swimming as if they were putting on a water show just for us!
Part of all travel and sightseeing is learning to be okay with not being able to “do it all”. We left a lot on our “next time” list that we didn’t even know about before we arrived inside the triangle. Post-Covid America would be a great time to see a few items we couldn’t get to on this trip – Busch Gardens Williamsburg, PatriottoursVA.com, home of the historic Yorktown Segway tour and any of a number of well regarded wineries in the area. Considering that the historic triangle is only about a 3 ½ hour car drive from most of our family in the Baltimore and surrounding areas, it seems like a great place to entice family visits and show them what we still wish to discover.
Safe travels and keep history alive!
Here is a listing of some of the great things to see and do in Virginia’s Historic Triangle:
When you launch full-time RV life in the middle of a pandemic, it ends up looking a little different from how you imagined it. Sure, many outdoor adventures can generally still happen, but you have to jockey for position on the hiking trail and keep your mask at the ready as you encounter fellow travelers. You pack a lot of meals instead of exploring small-town restaurants along the way, and you jump for joy when one of those little foodie spots touts touchless take-out so that you might enjoy the meal in your vehicle, even though you have to miss out on the atmosphere, people and beauty of the area you are visiting. Yes, Covid RV life is a little different.
So it wasn’t a big surprise when our first destination, in Waldo, Florida, was really a “stay-at-RV-home” kinda time. We were there for a month to take care of the last of our domicile to-do items (get Florida license plates on our truck), move our last baby chick out of our nest and into her own (she is attending college in Gainesville), and generally catch up on RV maintenance while trying to stay cool in the oppressive humidity and heat of Florida in August. We rested and recovered from the prior months of chaos (prepping the house for sale, getting rid of 90 percent of our belongings, organizing financially while quitting jobs and saying goodbye to family members) so we knew this would not be a “touristy” time for us.
We opted out of the giant Waldo Flea Market that was across the street from our campground – it would have been great fun if we didn’t see a need to avoid crowds. A visit to my daughter’s college campus was relegated to a drive-thru version, and we weren’t able to stop at the campus bookstore to buy the obligatory college t-shirt, as it was still operating under curbside pickup service. We couldn’t even go to the Santa Fe Teaching Zoo for a visit, as it was closed to the public during the pandemic. Outdoor fun was on hiatus for us, because frankly, it was just too dang hot to see the University of Florida Bat Houses and the Kanapaha Botanical Gardens. With years of education ahead of her in Gainesville, we will happily visit on future trips to see our daughter.
It was in an unexpected place that we finally got to dip our toes into the tourist waters. We moved on from Waldo and made reservations for a quiet little campground near Wytheville, Virginia (pronounced “with-ville”) for four nights around Labor Day weekend, located in the rural, southwestern tip of the state, and it was just what we needed and wanted. The first morning, we were met with the first of falling leaves and a crispness in the air that were familiar signs of the fall season. Ahhhhhh! Let the tourists begin!
First stop – Wytheville’s Smallest Church! What a perfect stop on our first day of exploring North America as FT RVers! The church is just off Exit 73 of I-81 but also near I-77 and Route 11 in Wytheville, Virgina. Tucked between a small country road and corn fields, the highway traffic and billboards were close by but quickly forgotten as we pulled into the tiny parking lot, sufficient for perhaps three cars.
There are beautiful and well maintained gardens with flowers and small statues, a miniature bell tower, and of course, the tiny little chapel. The creators that were inspired to faithfully build this special place in 2010 thought of everything, even installing a rainwater collection system at the back of the church to make sure there is water onsite for the pretty flowers.
The good feelings we felt upon arrival grew even more the moment we walked through the doors. The details are fantastic – beautiful wood interior walls and peaked roof, ceiling fans to keep cool, three tiny pews, a petite pulpit, and a prayer book full of special intentions left by prior visitors. We added our own prayer – and sat for a short while just to feel the Holy Spirit come over us. It was a magical place to discover. Here is a little website with some information about Wytheville’s Smallest Church – http://www.wythesmallchurch.com/, a worthy stop if you happen to be headed through the area, even if just for a break from the monotony of a long drive.
After our visit, I was inspired to see if tiny churches might be “a thing”, much like tiny houses. I found this blog post that has now created a whole new special bucket list of tiny churches around the country that I hope we can visit along the way!
From the website for Whytheville's Smallest Church ~
A Prayer Chapel in Wytheville VA dedicated to the Lord Jesus Christ.
If you find yourself tired or confused, fleeing or seeking,this place is for you.
Take a moment out of the everyday race and enjoy some time with the One that made you...HE is already here, waiting for you!
The next day of our tourist weekend, we decided to take advantage of the beautiful early fall weather and discovered the Big Walker lookout National Scenic Byway. The drive is outlined in several places online, but we liked this website for a mile-by-mile description. http://www.scenicbeauty-va.com/ We stopped along the route at the Jefferson National Forest at the Stoney Fork Campground. There was guest day-parking so that we could hike the marked trails with our two doggos and take a stroll through the campground as well. There is a creek that meanders all throughout the park, creating pretty photo ops, fishing spots and fresh, Covid-free air!
The byway weaves and turns, and climbs to an altitude of 3405 feet. It would be a gorgeous drive any time of the year, but I did make a mental note that any part of the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia are a must-see future stop during peak fall colors!
Our final stop of the weekend rounded out our brief Wytheville visit with a piece of kitsch Americana – Big Walker Lookout. This quirky place is the oldest privately owned scenic attraction in the state and includes a small country tourist-stop store that sells, among other things, delicious ice cream (I recommend the Lemon Crunch!). Most weekends, they bring in a local artist or author to sell their wares and a band to play music for visitors. It was a little tricky to maneuver safely in a Covid world, as masks and social distancing were certainly not the norm in this area and our Sunday afternoon visit was perhaps their busiest time. The local Gospel band was a joy to hear on this sunny and mild September day and created a great atmosphere. There were locals that stopped by for the afternoon and a group of motorcycle club riders enjoying themselves equally.
The views from the top of the mountain were pretty, but what our eyes were immediately drawn to was the 100 foot observation tower looming above the scene. Constructed entirely of metal scaffolding-type material and wooden stair planks on a brick and cement base, it looked every bit of its age. Attached to the base of the tower was a swinging, suspended wire/rope bridge that rose out above the parking area next to the country store. It was all built as part of a creative, family-owned small business that was launched at the top of Big Walker Mountain in 1947 to capitalize on the beauty of the land. It worked, because here we were, all these years later, prepared to pay $8 each to be able to see the views above the tree-line, another 100 feet higher.
As we took to the stairs, it was apparent that this was going to be as tricky as we had expected – neither of us are fans of heights, and it took us at least 15 minutes of discussion to even decide to scale the tower! Our usual Covid safety measures such as minimizing the use of high-touch areas ended immediately, as we both took a two-handed death grip on every inch of railing to the top. The age of the tower was apparent, as was our awareness that at the time it was built, the safety standards we benefit from today were certainly NOT applied during construction, which really added to our wariness. There was “chicken-wire” style coverage below the railings and broken stair treads – both with gaps large enough that I was happy in that moment that I no longer had fearless young children that wanted to scale the tower.
There were a number of little children that blasted past us, up and down the tower – as our tentative climb continued. I giggled a little at the contrasting views observers must have seen from below, but we certainly still felt that our fear was reasonable and expected. We slowly and steadily took each step, breathing deeply through our masks, casting our eyes in front of us rather than down, up or across the horizon. Our breathing became heightened, our heart-rates increased, and we eventually conquered our fears and made it to the top! The views were beautiful, and we quickly snapped photos to document our achievement. We could feel the tower swaying in the breeze, so we maintained a steady grip on the railing and decided quickly it was time to go downstairs.
The trip back down the tower was unexpectedly easier than the trip up had been. As we descended, the band was singing and playing the beautiful strains of Amazing Grace (“Was Grace that taught my heart to fear; And Grace, my fears relieved”) – perhaps grace had gotten us up and down that tower! We were victorious and proud of ourselves, feeling as if we had just done something that was a little risky, certainly a little scary for us, and gave us a thrilling achievement for a Sunday afternoon.
It was at the landing as we left the tower to reward ourselves with an ice cream cone that we were faced with a new reality. Walking past us, toward the tower, was a group of several conservative religious, perhaps Mennonites, ready to make the same climb. Among them, a woman, wearing the traditional dark, plain dress, white hair covering over her little bun and even a mask for safety. This dear woman looked to be about 85 years old – with a slow gait and a hunched back from years of living – and she took to the stairs without hesitation. With our egos feeling slightly jarred, we smiled, took a deep breath, shook the jitters out of our knees, and were grateful to be back on solid ground. We will try to remember this adventurous old woman as we contemplate any future tourist stops that seem a little frightening to us – we tackled this tower – and we are now ready to let our adventures begin – through God’s grace and blessings!
Safe travels, and enjoy your own "risky" adventures!