July 2021 – The view from the edge of our empty nest.

Why Oh, Wyoming?! Casper and Sheridan, We May Be Back!

Stops #2 and #3 in Wyoming

The road through Wyoming was unique in its beauty.

Life still happens when you are a full-time traveler. It is not a perpetual vacation. This leg of our summer of travel fun got hit with a little bit of “life”, smack in the middle of Wyoming. We had planned that the last two of our three stops in Wyoming were going to be filled with a couple of hikes, a stop at a rodeo, some downtown historic district shopping and a mix-in of a museum or two. Instead, we had to go with “Unplanned Plan B”.

“Unplanned Plan B” really ain’t so bad after all.

We did enjoy a delicious restaurant meal, but much of the rest of our time in Casper and Sheridan Wyoming ended up at home – watching movies, eating (waaay too much ice cream), crafting (I can’t wait to show you some of my recent crafts!) and catching up on household duties (yes, ya still gotta pay bills, run the biz and clean the house as a full-time traveler).

Perhaps it was something in the water, but within two days of arriving in Casper, we all started needing to stick very close to the bathroom – and I mean ALL of us. The dogs, the humans and ultimately, even the cat. At first, we thought only Calvin was having issues. Then we spent a couple of days feeling very “off”. When we thought Calvin was in the clear, we ventured out for a few hours, to do some exploring and enjoy a meal at a local steakhouse, only to come home to find that Bug also was now suffering the same fate…ALL throughout the camper. Sigh. It was then that we decided that sticking close to our RV home was our best “Unplanned Plan B”.

What, we have to go with “Unplanned Plan B”?!?!?

Welcome to Casper – where things won’t work out quite like you planned!

The drive throughout WY was exceedingly dry, but occasionally we saw refreshing water scenes like this one, on the way to Casper.

When it came time to move from Casper, north and west to Sheridan, we felt like the dogs were well enough to travel, only to discover an hour into the trip that Stencil the cat was suffering a similar fate. Worse yet, she was struck as we were driving up the highway. She became agitated and meowed and complained (not unusual for her on travel days – just about the only thing she hates about the RV life). Then the complaining paused and we smelled the distinct odor of a cat that had just had an accident in her crate. With no pull-offs or rest stops in sight, and not really sure how to safely resolve the issue and clean up the cat on the side of the highway with only a water bottle, we drove the next hour and a half with the windows down. Thankfully, it was a short travel day and Stencil settled down and found a place to rest in the back of her crate and away from her offending odor.

Bug recovered and found a way to completely relax on this travel day!

We arrived at Peter D’s RV Campground, cleaned up the cat and her crate, set up our home on wheels, and almost immediately, the hottest of the HEAT set in. It had been in the 90’s for days, but for the remainder of our stay, the effects of global warming were apparent, with record-breaking temperatures between 99 and 109 degrees for days on end. Additionally, the wildfires, still many miles away in Montana, Oregon, California were spewing a grey haze of smoke throughout Wyoming. Each day, as our pets healed, we did our best to keep the A/C running and the camper cool. The shades were pulled, a blanket was hung over the door window to reduce the sun’s impact, and we managed our electricity use to prevent any further problems (the electric capacity was being taxed since it was so hot that most folks decided to stay home each day). The smoke and heat beat out some exploration of Wyoming.

Instead of Plan A, full of fun visits and exploration, we wound up our visit to Wyoming mostly at home. The nice thing that I learned about this experience is that it was really nice (once everyone’s intestines were settled, at least). We are blessed to be living this semi-retired, traveling lifestyle. We don’t have to feel rushed or compelled to “cram it all in” to a specific timeframe. We didn’t get to see and do Wyoming like we had planned, but we can return some time and try again. Perhaps we will pass through here again this fall on the way to Denver for the Broncos-Ravens football game (that is another adventure we have in the planning stages!). Wyoming will be cooler then – and this time, we won’t drink the water.

(The fun we still had):

We were able to stop by the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center in Casper during our stay. Operated by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the center does a great job of educating and bringing the late 1800s to life. The Platte River runs through Sheridan and is the location where the major western frontier trails converged (before Sheridan even existed). Pioneers, missionaries, Mormons, miners and explorers traveled thousands of miles, mostly on foot, through this area. Sometimes 600 wagons a DAY passed through the area. We discovered the Atlatl (AT-lat-uhl), a Native American hunting tool that aided in throwing a dart. We learned about the varied reasons for westward exploration of North America, the hardships they faced and the methods and planning that brought them success in their amazing efforts.

Always a fun hobby of mine wherever we travel, we hit a few thrift stores for some bargains, and then we enjoyed dinner date night at FireRock Steakhouse. The service was strong (thanks, Bailey) and the food was delicious. Top on the list was the Firecracker Shrimp appetizer. The French Onion Soup was the 2nd best we’ve ever had (sorry, but Dobbin House Restaurant in Gettysburg, PA has everyone beat!), and the Blue Cheese Wedge salad was PERFECT! The flavor on our steaks was amazing, and when there was a temperature problem with the main entrée dishes, they cooked it all over again and made it right. Thanks to the manager that was attentive and wanted to be sure we had a great experience. The décor was dark, appealing and BUSY!! Our cocktails were exceedingly well made.

A Club Car Martini with a cinnamon rimmed glass

We enjoy trying the beef wherever we go out west!

My DH fell into the crab cake trap – again. As native Marylanders, we know what crab cake is supposed to taste like. The lesson: stop buying “Maryland Crab Cake” from places that are NOT in Maryland! We should not be surprised that Wyoming crab cakes are not going to be as they claim.

Don’t EVER order a Maryland Crab Cake when not in Maryland! (we knew this, but instead, curiosity won the day!)

While at home, I enjoyed lots of crafting. My latest project includes a counted cross stitch that I now have about ⅓ complete. I also have been making vinyl stencils for glass etching, and as always, sending gift packages to our loved ones back east.

Most of the campgrounds where we have camped out west have been unimpressive, even disappointing (and expensive for what you get). There are MANY great campgrounds around, but we simply booked too late to get the top picks. But we were happy to find Peter D’s RV Campground. This is camping a little more like I remember it! Privately owned and exceedingly polite and helpful, our dogs enjoyed their morning walk with a visit to the camp office where owner, Peter D, would offer them a treat. The campground is spotless and meets all the basic needs (there is no pool, but I am told there is a town pool nearby). Our reservation was made with a phone call and a verbal promise that we would have a site when we arrived. No cash on hand to pay the bill? That’s okay, just bring it when you can! The laundry is spotless and includes a “take one, leave one” book nook. The dog run is large and there is a center grassy section of the campground that sports a beautiful vegetable garden (thanks so much for the squash we were sent on our way with on travel day!) and a few resident bunnies that seem very content.

These bunnies layed on their sides in the grass no matter how close we approached – they had few worries in life at Peter D’s RV Campground

The campsites are TIGHT, but that is the only criticism I could mention. With slides and awnings out, we were within six inches of our neighbors. All sites are pull-through. The cost is exceedingly reasonable ($35 per night this year in celebration of their 20th year in business) and puts all those gravel covered KOA Journey’s to shame. The location is on the edge of a residential neighborhood, close to everything, but sits below the highway in a little hollow, so the highway noise is reduced and hardly noticed. This is a terrific quick stop or even good as a stopping point for a while as you explore the Sheridan area.

Photo Credit: Sharon Nothnagel on FB Group “Grand Design Solitude Owners” (we are rig #3)

While in Sheridan we enjoyed an afternoon exploring the Trail End Mansion and learned about how a poor Texas cowboy, turned wealthy rancher, governor and senator, built and lived in this beautiful mansion. I have always been drawn to old homes, and this Flemish Revival is exquisite from the early 1900s did not disappoint..

We wandered into downtown Sheridan and shopped a few of the unique stores and admired the plentiful sculptures all around town. We ate at Just Ledoux It Saloon and Steak Out, a restaurant with a great story – honoring a man that I didn’t know of until I was intrigued by his mention on their menu. Visit here to find out about his interesting life.

We ended our evening with a couple of drinks at the historic Mint Bar, founded in 1907. Uniquely decorated, this is the place we felt like we were truly hanging with the locals. We saw some genuine modern day cowboys and felt like we almost fit in with our own western garb. One additional happy discovery in Wyoming is the price of drinks! We managed to have two whiskey’s and a glass of wine here for $17.

Since 1907 (first, the Mint Saloon and now the Mint Bar)

A feast for your eyes from top to bottom. If the walls weren’t covered in old photographs as shown here, they were covered in shingles with branding symbols burned into the wood.

Lots of taxidermy, amazing curvy and carved wood on the bar and some local humor (complete with a lady that was nearly fall down drunk before 5 pm).

Yep, and a creepy glass-enclosed Jackalope!

We left Wyoming with happy memories and a lot of excitement for our next destination – MONTANA!

Safe travels, and remember that it isn’t your plan!

Cheyenne, Wyoming – Where We Found Truth More Than Grey

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.”

~ Anita Desai

Initially, it felt like Wyoming might be a let down. If Colorado is so well regarded as a popular and preferential destination for incoming residents and visitors alike, perhaps spending 15 days in neighboring Wyoming would disappoint. After all, we just finished a wonderful 28 day stay in Colorado. The cities in Wyoming are smaller and sleepier. The population is fewer and overall much more rural. The reputation for tourism is not bad certainly, but it has some steep competition with so many amazing surrounding western US states!

The Wyoming leg of our summer travels will span from July 6 – 21, 2021 and we will stay in three separate locations and campgrounds, primarily because we were unable to find campgrounds with space for much longer than four to six nights at a time (the lesson in this is, during post-pandemic times, know that there are a LOT more folks getting away from it all through camping, so reservations must be made WAY in advance!).

Stop #1 was Cheyenne, WY. As it turned out, this was the perfect balance of our time, with six days to explore and relax in the area. As we approached the state of Wyoming, it quickly became apparent that this southeastern region of the state was much different than the perhaps the more glamorous state of Colorado we had just left. The views were still beautiful, but in a different way. From the highway at least, you no longer noticed grand ranches and towns that were economic hubs. Instead it was more flat, more brown, and simpler in its beauty.

Our first impression upon arrival at our campground was that this area of Wyoming seems to be less of a destination and more a “stop along the way”. The campground was at 100% occupancy every night of our stay, but completely cleared out each morning except for perhaps a half dozen other campers, as travelers quickly moved on to wherever was their ultimate destination. What a shame. We were fortunate to be among the few campers that were going to spend a little time discovering Cheyenne.

We had a great visit to the area, but it was indeed a very different place than that which we had just left. My favorite day in Cheyenne was our last – and it was for simple, unexpected reasons. But before I share the best, let me share the rest…

Cheyenne is a city that was smaller and sleepier than I had imagined the largest city in the state would be. It is the capital as well, and steeped in history. There are only about 60,000 people there, it has a rough and tumble history, and lenient alcohol laws that permit open containers on the streets. So it was not surprising to see distilleries, breweries, outdoor concerts, a variety of western-themed museums and a historic shopping area that would entertain, educate and enlighten us for the next six days.

The bridge over the Union Pacific train tracks as we enter downtown Cheyenne, WY

I found the website cheyenne.org and several free and for-a-fee coupon download opportunities. We began with a trolly tour of the downtown and quickly became acclimated to the simple layout of the area. In the midst of a mini heat wave, the air-conditioning on board the trolley was less than efficient, but the admission was included with our $20 per person Legendary Pass which included admission to seven area attractions. We also were able to visit the Cheyenne Depot Museum, the Nelson Museum of the West, and the Terry Bison Ranch (a discounted admission) with the same pass. All were worthwhile, but in keeping with the Cheyenne theme, were also quaint and simple while remaining chock full of interest and history.

Another download from the Cheyenne Visitor’s Guide website (Daddy of the Malt) gave us BOGO discounts at any of a half dozen “thirst parlors” in town – we found our way to Accomplice Beer Company, set in the historic Cheyenne Depot. The (train) Depot is, of course, right alongside the many rows of still very active train tracks that in the 1860s, caused a quickly burgeoning city as new Americans arrived in what had previously been vast Native American and bison lands.

Accomplice Beer Company inside the Depot

We ate our first authentic and tasty Chicken Fried Steak at the Albany Restaurant, in the heart of downtown. You could see the history in the building facades wherever we walked, and in the photographs lining the walls inside the restaurant. Without a fancy interior, but with a really bustling local crowd on a weeknight, you get the sense that most of the streets and stores and restaurants roll up their sidewalks and close their doors at night as the breweries, distilleries and various beverage parlors welcome the crowds later at night.

Along the way, we caught a little bit of the daily gunslinger show and we shopped for gifts, snacks and western wear downtown. But one of our best discoveries was what has to be among the best restaurants in all of Cheyenne. Nothing fancy, as seems to be the feel of all of the Cheyenne restaurants we visited, the varied and unique menu is what caught our eyes. EpicEGG is a breakfast and brunch stop, open only until 2:00 pm each day. We loved the look of so many items on the menu that we went two days in a row….and took a take-out order home as well! Our favorites? Go Green Bene (a meatless twist on Eggs Benedict) and Epic Bene (a meatier twist on the classic). I also enjoyed my first ever Chicken Fried Chicken and Waffle, served with warm maple syrup and Andy enjoyed a meaty, cheesy, eggy, skillet dish that was also delicious. We took home some Sausage Gravy and Biscuit and from their lunch fare, a Reuben Sandwich. We were left wanting more, with our eyes caught on breakfast items with a Mexican flare, stuffed French toast and Pineapple Upside Down Cake Pancakes! Each savory menu item featured a different type of bread, including ciabatta, biscuit, English muffin, croissant, or quinoa cakes! Then, of course is the no-judgment-zone day drinking menu, including a dozen varieties of Mimosa, several Bloody Mary features and a few other unique cocktails that made this restaurant a fun midday stop on the tourist trail!

All of this fun brings us back to our best day in Cheyenne – our last day.

We awoke on a beautiful Sunday, with temperatures expected to be mercifully average – in the mid-to-high 80s, with the usual dry atmosphere to which our skin and eyes were finally adjusting after months of low humidity. There was no rain in the forecast, and the breeze, seemingly always present in Wyoming, made this day relaxed and comfortable, as we made our way to a local church.

Andy wore his newly acquired western boots and hat (yep, we are THOSE tourists, lol), and I wore my new Chaco sandals, all part of some of the fun shopping we enjoyed in Cheyenne. We were both dressed casually, something that was perfectly acceptable and noted on the Cheyenne Hills Church website (and a big perk as FT RVers with a small RV-sized wardrobe). I selected this church because it was the closest to our campground and because it seemed much different than any churches we had attended previously, but what we received was more meaningful.

Dressing the part in the wild west…as we head off to church on a beautiful Sunday morning

The experience was moving for us. Their use of technology to meet their mission was impressive. Their facilities were beautiful and amazing. The music was inspiring. The service had high production value. But the 21 year old speaker that day, aptly named Cole Church, was the icing on the cake that was our visit to Cheyenne!

The lobby looked like a nice Starbucks for social gatherings, and the seating inside the church was like a crisply decorated, high tech theatre.

You can see and hear the entire service at this link, selecting the sermon entitled The Scoffers, recorded on 7/11/21. The musical preludes and rest of the service are all worthwhile, but if you wish to get right to the message we heard, go to 36:45. As is often the case, you get what you need. We were reminded, through a sermon that was timely for us, that “God is real…God is in control…God is patient. The TRUTH is still real in a world of grey”. 1:07:29 is the closing prayer that moves into a beautiful cover song (The Comment Section, Sidewalk Prophets) as well. Give it a listen and bring a little bit of beautiful Cheyenne into your world.

We visited Cheyenne Hills church during their Strengthen and Engage series – it hit the mark with us.

Do not get the wrong impression. It is not to say that Cheyenne was so ho-hum that a church service was the highlight of my stay, but rather, that this church visit was so wonderful, it became the culminating event in a really great visit to Cheyenne, Wyoming! The church’s tagline is “Across The Street; Around The World” and this is a perfect representation of them and their mission – as well as something that truly speaks to us as a couple seeking a new church at each stop along the way in our travels.

As we held hands and left Cheyenne Hills Church (headed over to epicEgg for our second visit), I couldn’t help but imagine that one day, we will settle our roots once again, end our nomadic RVing ways, and find a worship home that stirs inspiration, love and peace into our life like this visit to Cheyenne Hills gifted us on this Sunday.

Thanks Cheyenne Hills Church and Cheyenne, Wyoming. We aren’t exactly across the street, and we aren’t so far as to be around the world either. But don’t be surprised if we check in online occasionally to enjoy your church, wherever our nomadic life takes us!

Stop #2 – Casper, Wyoming!

“Veni Vidi Amavi” (We came, We saw, We loved.)

~ Roman Proverb

A stone inlay map of the Utah Territory in the floor of the Depot

Colorado, You Might Just Be Our New Favorite State

Any stop along the Devil’s Head Trail in Pike National Forest leaves you inspired.

“But the Colorado rocky mountain high, I’ve seen it rainin’ fire in the sky…”
John Denver

Since selling our home and moving into our RV in July 2020, we have tried very hard to TAKE OUR TIME! We kept reading this lesson in the blogs, on the websites, and watching on Youtube, devouring online content in preparation for our own full-time travels, and we have therefore done a decent job of not rushing. But our recent 28 day stay in Larkspur, Colorado has been our longest stop yet.

From Red Rocks Ampitheatre and Park, to Garden of the Gods, to a simple Sunday drive to explore the area, the rock formations and colors were always amazing to see.

It might be somewhat premature to say it, with only 25% of our summer travel complete, and another four or more fabulous states on our itinerary. But I think that I have found my new favorite state! Certainly not an exhaustive list, but here are some of the reasons we have become big fans of the Centennial State:

These Aspen trees on Devils Head Trail in Pike National Forest gave me a new appreciation for the beautiful white bark and towering clusters.

Well, it is frankly, GORGEOUS! From Grays peak, to Red Rocks, to Royal Gorge, to Garden of the Gods, to Breckenridge, to just about any place we have taken a drive in our visits, this area and state is beautiful. The clouds just seem to be larger, puffier and hang lower in the sky than back east. The Cottonwood trees shed their fluffy seeds like a summer snowfall. The vistas are ever changing – green and flat topped buttes, snow capped massive mountains, rushing whitewater rivers, deep gorges and vast open space – the state has impressed our senses.

2. The wildlife is accessible and diverse. We have seen so many animals – bison, marmots, prairie dogs, pika, mule deer, white tail deer, cattle and birds of great variety. The Rocky Mountain Arsenal Wildlife Refuge was an easy start to our animal exploration (and remarkably close to the Denver airport), but there are so many places to hike and get close to wildlife that the options are endless. On a visit to the Denver Museum of Nature and Science, we were able to learn a bit about the animals in the habitats of Colorado, and also find a number of different ways to seek some of the harder to find animals (wolf, elk, bear, pronghorn, and mountain goat). Even in our campground and a trip to the local post office produced multiple sightings of deer.

3. There are so many options! The diversity of vistas and wildlife are only the start. There is such a variety of things to do, both indoors and outdoors! We checked off a lot on our to-do list for Colorado, but we still have a far longer list of things left undone! DONE: ride a historic carousel, walk a country road, explore Red Rocks, hike Grays Peak, drive through Rocky Mountain Arsenal Wildlife Refuge, hike Garden of the Gods, tour Cave of the Winds, shop Manitou Springs, eat at Fogo de Chao restaurant, walk the halls of the Denver Art Museum, dine at Ted ‘s Montana Grill with the best server EVER, visit the Denver Museum of Nature and Science, cheer at a Colorado Rockies baseball game, eat our first Pho, shop fun thrift stores, go to the movies, hike Devils Head Trail, ride a train through the Royal Gorge and much more! YET TO BE DONE: see a concert at Red Rocks, ascend Pikes Peak on a cog train, attend a Denver Broncos vs Ravens game, paint some art, ride on a white water raft, tour some historic buildings, traverse a mountain on a gondola, fly fish on a river, ride an eBike through a beautiful place, tour on a Segway…the list of cool things to do goes on and on and on in Colorado.

4. Coloradans are welcoming, friendly and very proud of their state. Wherever we explored, we ran into some exceedingly friendly residents that were ready and willing to “SELL” us on the merits of Colorado! After all that we had experienced, it certainly wasn’t a difficult pitch, but it was clear that those who live in the state, LOVE living there! We certainly have noted that with each mile westward, the people have become friendlier and more open (sorry. fellow East Coasters, but I don’t think this is any great secret or mis-truth). Coloradans are among the most kind and open Americans we have met along the way. The difference-maker for us, however, is that the pride is expansive in Colorado.

Those that are native, born and bred are especially proud to be so! These folks may be residents by default, but they CHOOSE to remain in Colorado because they believe so strongly in the beauty and wonder of their state. This is a palatable difference than we experience in other states. Then there are those that moved here by choice, years and decades earlier. They arrived, fell in love and remained residents of Colorado. These folks were always so happy to share their story and learn our story as well. Once they heard about our nomadic lifestyle, it was not long before they pitched us all the reasons that we should end up in CO once we decide to slow our travel and plant roots once again.

One similarity we noticed with our home state of Maryland is that state pride flies clearly in the extensive use of the state flag. While Colorado’s flag is not as unique or beautiful as Maryland’s, it is equally ubiquitous – displayed throughout the state, not only on flag poles, but on hats, shirts, housewares and more.

Throughout Colorado, and especially in the Castle Rock area outside of Denver, there has been record-breaking population growth for many years. Economic prosperity was evident in the areas of larger population, but we did also witness some of the inevitable challenges of such growth and success. Housing clearly was in short supply and expensive, we witnessed homelessness in Denver, and we saw traffic problems due to overcrowded roads and construction that seemed to not be able to catch up to demand. We clearly could see that water shortages are becoming an issue as a result of the state’s tremendous population growth and the impact of global warming.

No state is free of problems. The difference in Colorado? Not one single person spoke a single negative word about their state. Whatever difficulties and challenges the great state of Colorado is facing, we didn’t hear about it from the residents. Instead, they wanted to share all that they love about their state, and welcome us – as visitors or perhaps even future residents.

A view from the Denver Museum of Nature and Science

It seems that 28 days was a great way to fully explore the eastern half of the state, including Denver and the surrounding regions. We explored some of the highest elevations of a Colorado “fourteener” in Grays Peak and the lowest elevations of the Arkansas River in the Royal Gorge. We enjoyed our peek into the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountain regions. But there is so much more we have yet to see, having not even touched upon the beautiful Colorado Plateau, which lies to the west of the Rocky Mountains and the Intermontane Basin, found in the far northwest corner of the state.

Yes Colorado, we have enjoyed exploring you tremendously. We will be back to finish the job someday. And maybe, just maybe, we will find that perfect little house on a lake, with a mountain view that we are seeking to settle upon again someday – and maybe that little house sits in Colorado.

Devil’s Half Acre at the end of the trail in Pike National Forest

“Colorado has always been a good place to find what you’re made of.”
John Hickenlooper

“Our peace shall stand as firm as Rocky Mountain.”
William Shakespeare